Purchasing a vintage car can carry risks that give second thoughts to even the most seasoned enthusiasts. Those trepidations are amplified when it comes to putting your money down for a classic Corvette.
They’re Chevys, but in a world of their own when it comes to value, maintenance, and the ownership experience. As a Corvette restorer and NCRS judge tells us: “To get the most out of a classic Corvette, you’ve got to be very sure about what you’re getting into.”
In other words, you’ve got to do your homework — especially if you’re buying your first vintage ’Vette. There are plenty of questions to ask the seller about the car’s history and originality, but it’s crucial to get down on your hands and knees to inspect a prospective purchase from top to bottom. It’s the only way you’ll know for sure if the car is exactly as the seller is presented.
That may sound obvious, but far too many people take sellers at their word, only to be disappointed later. In some cases, the seller may have been outright deceitful, but in many instances, a car owner may not know the full story of his or her own vehicle. The Corvette is one of those automotive icons that draws speculators and casual car fans who are more interested in flipping the car or simply having the classic Corvette driving experience for a while. They don’t necessarily know the nuts and bolts of the car.
It’s particularly true when it comes to the C2 or “mid-year” cars from 1963-’67. They’re the classic Sting Ray models, and a thorough inspection is essential to ensure you don’t end up with a fiberglass-wrapped money pit. Frame and/or body repair needs can quickly add up with these cars, and the specialty work involved with making one right can easily surpass its value.
That’s our focus with this story: A C2 inspection that helps even first-time Corvette buyers feel confident about their purchase. In fact, we recently tagged along with a friend on the inspection of a 327-powered 1967 Corvette coupe wearing an older restoration. While he was chatting about the car with the seller, we stuck our camera lenses underneath it to document its condition, which we’ve outlined in the accompanying photos.
The big irony with vintage Corvettes is the assumption that, because of their fiberglass bodies, rust isn’t an issue, when it’s actually the most important factor to consider. The two areas of concern are the frame and the “birdcage” structure that serves as the underlying framework to which the body is attached.
The birdcage structure includes the windshield frame, door hinge pillar, door lock pillar, the underlying framework for the roof, and the rockers. Because most of the birdcage is hidden by the body, it is difficult to discern if there’s a problem, but telltale clues include window moldings that have popped off their mounts and/or won’t sit flush against the window frame. Also: The condition of the radiator core support lower channel is a good indicator. If it’s bad, it’s a good bet the birdcage is, too.
Frame rust is common, too, and much easier to discern during an inspection. It is not necessarily a deal-breaker, though, especially compared to the birdcage. Depending on the extent of frame rust, it can be repaired. It’s not an inexpensive project, but it’s doable. Birdcage rust, on the other hand, should be considered a deal-breaker. It’s not a financially feasible repair project.
Additionally, these Corvette bodies were assembled from many components that were joined with reinforcing lengths of fiberglass known as bonding strips.
They have always been difficult to repair — or, at least, to repair properly.
Over the years, many do-it-yourselfers and inexperienced body shops tackled it in the best ways they could, but the results often manifested in flaws that emerged later. Uneven body gaps and panel flushness are the biggest indicators of less-than-stellar bodywork. It’s true the factory tolerances in the early days were comparatively generous, but Chevrolet actually did pretty well at it, so poor body fit that is readily apparent is a red flag.
Even if the gaps look good, examine the car indoors and under fluorescent lighting, whenever possible. It will reveal flaws or signs of repairs that sunlight masks. Typically, this will show where splices in the fiberglass may have been made, such as where the nose of the car was cut off and another section joined.
Much of the rest of a C2’s inspection follows the guidelines for examining other collector cars, which we’ve applied to the ’67 our friend was interested in purchasing. Notably, we’re not talking about prices or value here — only whether the car’s physical condition lived up to his goal of finding a fair-weather driver and not a project vehicle.
In other words, it was all about not getting stung by a Sting Ray.