Barn finds and classic cars that were once loved, then forgotten in fields or tucked away in buildings often hold stories that tug on our heart strings. In this case, the collection of Mopar muscle cars is not forgotten, but instead holds memories for the man who owns them. In the below video, we get to take a peek at a crown jewel that is parked amongst the Plymouth Barracudas, ’Cudas, Dusters, and Road Runners left to rust – a 1971 ’Cuda with billboard stripes and a Shaker hood.
Parker, the host of YouTube channel Backyard Barn Finds, is a millennial enthusiast known for finding and restoring classic American muscle cars like Camaros and Mustangs. He and his team headed out to Gerald’s Pennsylvania property, where a plethora of Mopars in varying conditions are scattered throughout.
The ‘Cuda Barn Find Holy Grail
There are actually two 1971 Cudas on the property. This model year is the holy grail for Mopar collectors, with the lowest production numbers, the wildest styling and a wide array of factory options that had proud owners driving away with drag strip race-ready muscle cars.
Distinguishable by the shark gills and quad headlights, the 1971 Plymouth Cuda saw fewer than 500 examples factory-equipped with a shaker hood, mostly on Hemi-powered models. The example found by Backyard Barn Finds is exceptionally rare in that is equipped with a 383 cubic-inch V8 mated to a slapstick automatic. It also features power windows, leather buckets, rear defrost, and dash-mounted cassette deck, but in its current state of decay, only the most Mopar-fluent enthusiasts would give the muscle car a second look. In the video, Parker states that this is the rarest Plymouth Cuda he has ever found.
Mopar Memories
During a tour of the property, the owner introduces us to a 1973 Plymouth Barracuda, a muscle car which he bought used and drove as a senior in High School. He converted the car to a 340 cubic-inch pistol grip four-speed. Around that same time, he was fixing up a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner for his cousin, now equipped with a 440 six-pack, which still sits on his property.
We also see a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner V-Code equipped with a 440 Six Pack, still sporting its factory In-Violet finish, not to be confused with Dodge’s Plum Crazy hue. A 1972 Duster with a 340 engine mated to a four-speed transmission is parked nearby, plus a handful of 318-powered Barracudas that have a story of their own. Watch as Backyard Barn Finds uncovers these once-hidden Mopar gems:
In the beginning, the owner states that these cars are not for sale, but later in the video he states some of them “may be for sale.” Contact the Backyard Barn Finds YouTube channel if interested.
If you’re not good at telling one brand’s engine from another, perhaps the color may help. In the case of Ford Motor Company products of a particular era, they were painted a certain shade of blue starting in the 1966 model year.
As part of a branding effort, Ford wanted you to know that the sign of quality under the hood was painted the same hue as the Blue Oval logo that was so familiar to many people since 1927. Of course, Ford’s marketing department didn’t tell you this streamlined the production process as well.
From what I can gather, the use of “Ford Corporate Blue” engine paint did not last beyond 1981, around the time when several platforms were modernized.
I’ve seen the above notice sporadically appear online over the years. I do not know if it came from Ford, but it certainly reads like it did.
In a May press release about the updated CR-V lineup, Honda said the “CR-V is America’s best-selling CUV over the last 28 years and continues to set sales records, surpassing 400,000 units last year—an all-time best for the model.” There are many reasons for the model’s popularity, some of which I covered in my review of the 2025 Honda CR-V Sport Touring Hybrid. Another one I’ve learned by driving an older model is that the CR-V is a great road trip vehicle.
I’ve been on a lot of road trips in my life in a variety of vehicles, but I think I’ve put the bulk of that kind of mileage on my mother-in-law Liz’s 2022 CR-V EX-L. When it comes down to it, my wife’s Mazda CX-5 isn’t as roomy on the inside and my Hyundai Sonata doesn’t have enough cargo space. Within just a few years, I’ve driven the CR-V from metro Phoenix to Sedona and Flagstaff, Las Vegas, and Carlsbad, California. That’s not even counting all the times I’ve been a passenger in it on the way to places such as Jerome, Arizona, and on the way back from El Paso. What’s made it such a go-to vehicle when it’s time for my wife, son, mother-in-law, and me to get out of town?
LOW-KEY STYLING
2022 Honda CR-V Touring
In many ways, the Honda CR-V is well-rounded. It’s not too pricey, not too indulgent, not too sporty. Visually, it strikes a similar balance. As a crossover, it’s essentially a two-box design, but it has enough angles and curves to make it a little more interesting. At the same time, it’s not what I’d call a flashy vehicle—even in its lustrous Radiant Red Metallic finish. It’s easy to make good time to your destination when you don’t have people coming up to you at gas stations to ask questions about what you’re driving.
FREAKISH CARGO CAPACITY
2017 Honda CR-V cargo area
I was impressed by the CR-V’s ability to swallow luggage and gear before I ever drove it. My MIL and my late FIL Hugo used to go on trips in it and I remember Hugo would always pack an absolutely giant duffel bag as well as two desktop computer monitors so he could work remotely. By the time Liz added her stuff, the rear cargo area of the CR-V was stacked to the ceiling. Sure, the rearward visibility was reduced to zero, but I marveled at my in-laws using every single one of the CR-V’s 39.2 cubic feet of cargo space behind the second row. I was also impressed by the sheer amount of stuff such a modestly sized vehicle could hold. These days, the CR-V has no problem fitting my son’s smaller travel stroller and enough luggage for a short trip.
COMFORT FOR ALL
2021 Honda CR-V Touring interior
Both rows of the CR-V EX-L’s Gray leather interior are a pleasant place to be. Up front, there’s a leather-wrapped steering wheel with controls for the audio system and the adaptive cruise control (such a nice thing to have on an out-of-state trip), dual-zone automatic climate control, leather-wrapped shifter, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and Brake Hold (great for when the flow of traffic slows to a trickle). Even when my son Hayden is riding in his bulky car seat in the back, my wife still has enough legroom in the shotgun seat.
The second row offers adult-sized legroom, a pair of HVAC vents in the back of the center console, fold-down center armrest with cup holders, and reclining seatbacks.
PLEASANT RIDE QUALITY
Thousands of miles driving and riding in the CR-V has shown me just how well Honda set up its suspension. Even on rough roads (especially the one to Vegas), it’s gentle and compliant without feeling floaty or sloppy.
RESPECTABLE POWER
My MIL’s front-wheel-drive CR-V has a turbocharged 1.5-liter I4 under the hood. Factory-rated at 190 horsepower and 179 lb-ft of torque, and hooked to a CVT, it’s built for practicality, not speed. As modest as the CR-V’s engine may be, it’s never left me needing more, even on the uphill drive to Arizona’s “High Country.”
WALLET-FRIENDLY FUEL ECONOMY
2021 Honda CR-V Touring
No matter how much I enjoy a long drive with my family, I don’t want to extend it with frequent stops to gas up. Luckily, the ’22 CR-V with FWD has fuel economy figures of 28 mpg in the city, 34 on the highway, and 30 combined. That means more time for pounding out the miles, but fewer chances to get a cold fountain drink (sorry, My Love!).
Given how low the mileage on my MIL’s CR-V is, I envision my multigenerational family taking several more road trips in it—until Hayden has a sibling. Then it’ll be time for me to get the minivan of my dreams.
Your vehicle’s cooling system is more than just a radiator, water pump, thermostat, fan, and coolant. Well, OK, it is exactly that, but there is a lot more to an effective cooling system than just the parts, they need to be matched to properly cool the engine (and transmission/oil) consistently without overheating. There are so many variables in cooling system design that can cause major headaches. You may think you have a serious engine issue, but you may just have the wrong radiator cap.
We spent some time speaking with Phil Cochran of U.S. Radiator in Gadsen, Alabama, about automotive cooling systems. U.S. Radiator has been building the best in radiators for over 50 years, using American-made parts and materials. When it comes to radiator and cooling system components, you really do not want to skimp on the quality, the life of your engine depends on it. If you have a project that you need assistance with keeping it cool, call U.S. Radiator at 800-421-5975 so their techs can help you solve the problem and get your temps down where they should be.
Are All Radiators The Same?
The simple answer is absolutely not. There are so many different styles and types of engine radiators, it can get confusing, but there are a few styles that are the most common. Prior to the 1980s, pretty much every radiator was made from a copper-brass alloy, which offers the best heat transfer rate. The problem with copper-brass (CB for short) is that the tubes have to be thicker and they use solder to bond each tube to the end plate. This makes CB radiator cores thicker, taking up more space. In the mid-80s, copper and brass became harder to get, so OEMs switched to aluminum radiators. Aluminum also conducts heat well, just not quite as well as CB. The difference is that aluminum tubes are much thinner, so you can fit more rows of tubes in the same space as a CB core.
This is a stack of newly formed Copper-Brass radiator tanks waiting to be mounted to cores at the U.S. Radiator facility in Gadsen, AL. Copper-Brass is more effective at heat transfer, but can’t have as many rows of tubes as aluminum.This U.S. Radiator CB core uses flat-fin technology which allows more contact with the wall of the tube and allows more tubes in the same space. When it comes to radiators, more is usually better.
Why Should I Choose A Copper-Brass Radiator?
CB cores can be repaired, as they are soldered together, where aluminum cores are much harder to repair pinhole leaks. CB cores are not affected by electrolysis, so if you maintain the cooling system and flush it every 2-3 years, your radiator should last a very long time. The main reason to select a CB radiator is the appearance. If you want to keep the original appearance, then a CB radiator does that. U.S. Radiator can even re-core your original radiator with a modern core that has better flow but retains the original tanks, which is important for vehicles built in the 1950s and older, as the VIN and data plates were typically affixed to the radiator tank.
Why Choose An Aluminum Radiator?
Aluminum radiator cores have more rows of tubes with thinner walls, making them more efficient when compared to the same size CB core. “We can move more coolant in a smaller space with aluminum” Cochran told us, “If we leave it based on space alone, we go with aluminum.” That doesn’t mean that aluminum cores are perfect, they do need to be protected from electrolysis, which is an electro-chemical reaction that is present in every engine cooling system. The fix is to run a sacrificial anode in the cooling system. Aluminum radiators are difficult to repair, so when they fail it is a replacement job.
Downflow radiators may limit your options because the core support is only large enough to fit a downflow radiator, there is no room for side tanks. This 1966 GMC Suburban keeps its 5.3 LS engine cool with a downflow aluminum radiator that fills the opening with core. There isn’t room for anything bigger.
What Is The Difference Between Downflow and Crossflow Radiators?
Most radiators were downflow until the mid-60s, when OEMs began using crossflow designs, though many trucks kept the downflow design into the 1970s. A downflow design has tanks on the top and bottom of the radiator. Water flows from the pump to the top of the radiator, filling the tubes and flowing downward to the bottom tank, where it is pulled back into the engine. When comparing apples to apples, if the cores are the same size and design, along with the tanks, then there is not much difference in efficiency. Crossflow radiators have several benefits that downflow units don’t. Cooling systems are pressurized, and the radiator cap is there to manage the pressure. Downflow radiators can only have the cap on the hot side (where hot coolant exits the engine), so this is the highest-pressure area, allowing the cap to vent prematurely. This is a small benefit, but worth mentioning.
You are not stuck with a basic radiator, you can always have a new unit made with U.S. Radiator’s Tripleflow core, which works for both crossflow and downflow radiators.
What Is A Dual or Triple Flow Radiator?
In many cases, you can order a new radiator that looks like a typical radiator but is divided internally into two or three sections. A typical radiator flows all the coolant through the entire core in one pass. A dual or triple flow core splits the core so that the coolant flows through each section of the core, giving the coolant more time to transfer heat, making it far more efficient. The U.S. Radiator Tripleflow option can drop engine temps up to 20%, which is a huge gain. If you have a hot-running engine, this could be the difference you need.
Radiator caps are not all the same, in fact, getting the wrong one can be a disaster. This is a modern cap, which seals the expansion tank. Note this is a 15psi system. Many newer vehicles don’t even have a cap on the radiator itself.
Why Are There So Many Different Radiator Caps?
If you have ever been to a parts store, you probably noticed about a million radiator caps. While some of this is due to OEMs not using a standard cap size (Asian cars have very small caps for example), there is also a difference in the pressure relief. Heat means pressure, and your cooling system has a limit on how much pressure it can contain; this is where the cap relief valve vents to purge that excess pressure. When you get steam pouring out from under the hood, that is the cap venting.
“How your cooling system pressure is managed is a critical component to the overall design” says Cochran, “Open or closed recovery systems change the pressures inside the main cooling system.” The first closed-loop cooling systems for automobiles came out in the late 1930s, but they were not standard until the late 1980s. Even GM has used both systems in the same model with different packages. For example, a 1968 Buick GS had a standard closed system, but that would be an optional accessory on a Skylark. There are different pressure rates for various engines and cooling system types. The most common are 15 PSI for closed systems, and 7-15 PSI for open systems. Some race cars use 20- to 30-lb. caps, but that is not for the street.
An open system vents to a bottle, can, or to the ground (not very environmentally sound!) and uses a single-seal cap. When the coolant pressure exceeds the cap rating, the valve opens, sending coolant into the overflow tank. Closed systems are much more efficient. These use a double-acting cap which purges extra pressure and draws reserve coolant into the system when it is cold. The tank on a closed system is an expansion tank, serving to maintain the coolant level in the system when hot and cold.
Why Does Radiator Cap Pressure Matter?
“A change in pressure of 1 psi results in a 3-degree change in temperature” says Cochran, “If your engine calls for a 15 PSI cap, but the one that is actually on the radiator is only holding to 7 PSI, you can see engine temperatures 27 degrees higher than you should.” The opposite is also true, as water boils at 212-degrees at sea level, but at 6200 ft, it boils at 200, this is the difference in pressure. While a higher-pressure cap will push the boiling point higher, the pressure inside the system can reach unsafe levels. Remember, the hoses, pump, and gaskets are under the same pressure and temperature, ballooning the hoses with higher pressures is a recipe for disaster. Another key point on caps- Stay away from the cheap overseas caps, buy a quality US-made cap so you can be sure it will actually vent at the correct pressure.
Auxiliary coolers like this transmission cooler, are often strapped to the radiator core with special zip ties. These will eventually rub a hole in the tubes. They also reduce the flow through the radiator.
Do I Need An External Or Internal Transmission Cooler?
This is a common issue for gearheads, especially when swapping transmissions from manual to auto. All automatics need a cooler to maintain the 175-degree optimum running temperature. The best way to do this is to use an internal transmission cooler in the radiator. The reason for this is that transmissions do not like cold temperatures, ATF is much thicker at room temp than at 175, in fact AFT doesn’t thin out to the correct viscosity until it reaches 160 degrees, so if your transmission is running colder than 160, the fluid is putting more strain on the valves and seals. An internal cooler helps bring the ATF temp up faster so that your transmission is running at the optimum temperature.
External coolers are unregulated, so they will cool as much as possible, often taking the temps too low. If you are experiencing higher transmission temps or tow, then you may need both. An auxiliary cooler mounted after the internal cooler to reduce the fluid temps a bit more before they go into the transmission.
Why Not Run An External Transmission Cooler On The Radiator?
The main reason is that it increases the stack-up in front of the radiator, inhibiting the airflow through the core. Imagine a modified muscle car with AC (condenser in front), auto trans (cooler behind AC condenser) and then the radiator core, that is a substantial stack in front of the core. You can easily block 1/2-2/3rds of the core with these two alone, not to mention that the air that flows through the core is now much hotter than it would have been. Then let’s add an intercooler for boost, which goes in front of all of the rest, so you have a lot of mass reducing flow. Internal coolers are more efficient and reduce the overall stack-up, which is why they are recommended.
Mechanical cooling fans must have a shroud to generate the draw through the core. Without a shroud, you might as well not have a fan at all.
Do I Need A Radiator Cooling Fan?
Moving beyond the radiator, the rest of the system is just as important. The biggest mistake many gearheads make with their cooling system is the fan. Mechanical fans are just fine, but they eat horsepower and are not controllable. Electric fans are the best option for any car that is not restrained by originality. Regardless of the fan style, all fans should be shrouded, especially mechanical fans. Without a shroud, a mechanical fan is just stirring up the air around it, there is little draw through the radiator at all. With a shroud, the fan generates a vacuum, pulling air into the radiator. This is only important below 40 mph, once the vehicle is moving 40 or faster, the natural airflow takes over.
Electric fans are the best way to go, as they are temperature controlled, do not eat horsepower, and can be turned on under varying conditions such as when the AC is running. That last part is really nice for 2-speed or multiple fans. They should also be shrouded, as shown on this 1974 El Camino.This Ford F150 was built for U.S. Radiator’s owner Phil Cochran. They use a set of fan rings to support the fans instead of the dreaded zip ties. Sometimes there just isn’t enough room for a shroud.
Electric fans should be shrouded as well. The recommended distance between the fan and the radiator is 1-2”, with a full shroud covering the entire fan-side of the core. This forces the air through the entire core instead of just the area directly in front of the fan. It is very common to see electric fans mounted to a radiator with special zip ties, while this works, it will eventually rub a hole in the core. A shroud is far better, but a fan ring is the suitable solution for tight-fit vehicles where a shroud is less feasible. Fan rings mount to the perimeter of the radiator, eliminating the risk to the core.
The coolant must match the system and any remaining coolant in the system. You have to flush multiple times if you are changing coolant types. Pro-Tip: Instead of pouring like a milk jug, turn the bottle on its side as shown. This is glug-free, no-mess way to pour any fluid.
Is There Really A Difference In Coolant Types?
There are many formulations for coolant as each manufacturer has their specific formulations, however in the United States, there are three main type of engine coolant: Original Green Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology or OAT-Based, and Hybrid OAT G-05 and G-11 coolants. You may ask “why does this matter to me, I have a 1970 Chevelle, the old green stuff is fine.” If you have the original engine, then sure, you would be right, but if you have LS swapped that Chevelle?
IAT (Classic Green) coolant is silicate-based ethylene-glycol. It is very good at what it does, but for a very limited time. IAT coolant is good for 2-3 years, after that it doesn’t work well too resist freezing and begins to eat the rubber in the hoses and seals. It is highly recommended than any engine using IAT coolant be flushed every other year with a chemical flush and then refilled with fresh coolant. Remember, IAT coolant is toxic to all living things, so dispose of it properly.
IAT coolant does not mix well with aluminum, over time the coolant will eat away at the aluminum, including the radiator, block, and heads. This is the main reason OAT coolants were developed. If you have an aluminum radiator, you should be running OAT or HOAT coolant.
OAT coolant goes by many brand names; one such name is Dexcool. While Dex was named the culprit by shade tree mechanics in a massive recall by GM in the 1990s, the actual issue was an incompatible plastic used for gaskets. The coolant melted the plastic over time, but Dex got the blame. GM still uses the exact same OAT coolant; the gaskets were changed. This stuff has longer life, up to 10 years, but we still recommend flushing it every 3-4 years, as OAT coolants do not like air, and will sludge up over time. This is the reason that all modern vehicles have fully sealed cooling system with no vents on the expansion tanks. OAT coolant does not like copper-brass, so if you have an older vehicle with a CB radiator, IAT is going to be the best choice.
The newest type of coolant is HOAT. Because IAT and OAT coolants can NEVER be mixed (they turn to sludge immediately), a hybrid coolant was developed, using a little of both technologies. Most OEMs use HOATs now (GM is the odd duck, sticking with Dexcool). With a solid 5-year lifespan, you can safely use HOAT coolant in place of either type for 5 full years. This is the “All-Makes” coolant you see at the store.
Sludge is what happens when you don’t flush your cooling system often enough. These tubes are corroded and plugged with gunk. You want this garbage floating around in your engine? Neither do we.
Tap Water Is Good Enough, Right?
NOPE. While just about every one of us has done it, filling your cooling system with tap water is a terrible option. The minerals in tap water create all kinds of havoc, including sludge, corrosion, crystalline formations, and some even become acidic when mixed with phosphates. Many import coolant formulations such as Honda and Toyota use heavier phosphates, hard water (high in calcium and magnesium) reacts very poorly with phosphates and can severely damage your engine over time. Tap water is also a major contributor to electrolysis in cooling systems. You should only use distilled water mixed 50/50 with the proper coolant. Better yet, you really should consider buying pre-mixed coolant, which ensures that you are getting all the good stuff and none of the bad stuff and you don’t have to mix it. Yes, You are “paying for water,” but it is the right water. Your Brita filter is not good enough; you need chemically pure water to avoid the contamination.
My Engine Is Running Hot, Can I Just Run A Cooler Thermostat?
This myth is one of the worst there is, as the thermostat does not have any control over the operating temperature of your engine. Your engine is going to run as hot as it is going to run based on the cooling system parameters. A properly designed system will maintain the temperature in a safe range. The only thing the thermostat does is open and close at a specific temperature, it is actually regulating the minimum temperature, not the top end. A 160-degree Tstat begins to open around 135-140 degrees and is fully open at 160. When the temps fall below 160, the Tstat begins to close until the temps rise again. If you have too high of a tstat, your engine will get up to temp faster, but you are closing off some of your cooling range, going to a cooler temp unit will only open the flow faster.
There are reasons to run a higher or lower thermostat, such as you want to be able to use the heater sooner from a cold start, or your engine needs to get up to a higher temp faster. Most modern engine ECMs don’t even turn the fans on until the engine is at 205-degrees, so going from 190 to a 170 tstat won’t do a thing to reduce the operating temperature unless the previous tstat was higher than the cooling system’s efficiency.
AS you can see, there is a lot more to cooling systems than just the raw parts, every piece of the puzzle needs to be compatible, from the radiator to the coolant and water you use. This article is a “5,000-foot view” of engine cooling systems. You can learn more on each of the above sections by clicking the links in the text above for each section. Gearheads spend the most money on their engines, why would you put it at risk by running the original 6-cylinder radiator and tap water?
At the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles, you can check out three floors of antique, classic, modern, and exotic cars plus all the rarities in the Vault. But if you wanted to see how all those stunning vehicles are maintained and preserved, you couldn’t—until recently. The Petersen is now selling tickets for its Workshop Tours.
A classic Porsche and Corvette in the Workshop
During the Workshop Tour, 25 attendees get to see how the museum’s mechanics, technicians, detailers, and porters keep the exhibit vehicles running and looking their best. The cars in the Workshop change regularly; one that previously received some TLC there was a 1993 Bugatti EB 110, the 552-horsepower, V12-powered product of the iconic brand’s 1990s Italian renaissance.
1957 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL
As part of the walk-through, museum staff will also take visitors on a guided tour of the Vault, which currently houses a 1939 Bugatti Type 57C Atalante, 1948 Tucker 48, and 1957 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL “Gullwing.”
1955 LaSalle II Roadster and LaSalle II Sedan in the GM’s Marvelous Motorama exhibit
The Workshop Tours are only available on Saturdays; tickets are $99 for adults (18+) and $50 for children 17 and under. Each ticket also includes general admission so, once the guided tour is over, you can begin the free-roaming tour of the museum’s various exhibits, such as The Wedge Revolution: Cars on the Cutting Edge and GM’s Marvelous Motorama: Dream Cars from the Joe Bortz Collection. For more information on the Petersen Automotive Museum’s Workshop Tours, click here.
Right now on AutoHunter, you can find this restored 1968 MG MGB GT. It features several significant updates, including a reupholstered interior and a rebuilt 1.8-liter inline-four engine mated to a rebuilt four-speed manual gearbox. Finished in red over a black cloth and vinyl interior, this Mark II MGB is now offered by the selling dealer in Arizona with maintenance records and a clear title.
The red body features chrome bumpers with guards, bright window and body side trim, lift-up rear hatch, external fuel cap, and single exhaust outlet.
A set of 175/70 Hankook Optimo H724 radial tires surround the 14-inch wire wheels.
Under prior ownership, the front bucket seats were reupholstered in black cloth and vinyl. Interior features include replacement floor pans, wood-rimmed steering wheel, rack-and-pinion steering, radio delete, floor-mounted manual shifter, and black vinyl low-back rear bench seat.
The Smiths instrumentation consists of a 7,000-rpm tachometer, 120-mph speedometer, and gauges for the fuel level, oil pressure, and temperature. The odometer shows 67,821 miles, but the title for this vehicle indicates it’s mileage-exempt.
Both the BMC (British Motor Corporation) B-series 1.8-liter I4 and the four-speed manual transmission were rebuilt in 2021. The engine came from the factory offering 95 brake horsepower at 5,400 rpm, and 110 lb-ft of torque at 3,300 rpm, with 8.8:1 compression. Recent updates include new fluids and rebuilt dual carburetors.
This little British hatchback holds the road thanks to an independent front suspension and semi-elliptic rear springs. The braking system, which includes front discs and rear drums, was completely overhauled.
You can see this 1968 MG MGB GT in action in the video below. To see it parked in front of your house, you need to place the winning bid. Do that soon because the auction ends on Wednesday, September 10, 2025, at 11:45 a.m. PDT.
Everybody loves a Jeep! But that affection is sometimes conditional…
The Wrangler is now in its fourth generation, with the best-selling current JL-chassis version having been on sale since 2018, and facelifted for 2024. This model –the one everyone pictures when they hear the word “Jeep”– has World War II origins, but it debuted in this form for 1987 with the YJ-chassis Wrangler, built through 1995. While the YJ offered more comfort, stability, and modernity than the long-serving yet controversial CJ, it was vilified by the hardest of Jeep’s hardcore fans primarily for the nontraditional appearance of its front end, courtesy of a pair of rectangular sealed-beam headlights (plus matching secondary lighting) flanking a kinked grille. The modernized 4×4 was lower, wider, and handled better on the road than its predecessors, making it better suited to the carlike everyday use its owners were subjecting it to. Indeed, forthcoming Wrangler variants would bring new meaning to this Jeep once allegedly called “America’s Sports Car.”
The sportiest Jeep of this era –and one of the most valuable today— was the body-kitted 1991-’94 Wrangler Renegade. Photo courtesy of Stellantis Media
Something Borrowed, Something New
The new Jeep was released to the public the year that Chrysler bought the brand as part of its purchase of American Motors, and AMC had worked very hard to engineer it with capability befitting the marque. The Wrangler used Jeep’s Command-Trac selectable 4WD system and could be ordered with two AMC-sourced engines: a fuel-injected 2.5-liter/150-cu.in. (117 hp/135 lb-ft) inline-four mated to a five-speed manual or a carbureted 4.2-liter/258-cu.in. (112 hp/210 lb-ft) inline-six paired with the five-speed or optional three-speed automatic. The much-loved, fuel-injected 4.0-liter (180 hp/220 lb-ft) inline-six came online for 1991 when the newly multi-port-injected four made 123 hp/139 lb-ft; the roll cage structure was redesigned for 1992 to offer an upper mounting point for rear shoulder harnesses; anti-lock brakes became available for 1993; and the automatic could be paired with the four-cylinder for ’94. Wrangler buyers could choose many different trim levels, including the bold Renegade, the upmarket Laredo and Sahara, the Islander, and the Rio Grande. They could have half or full hard doors, folding soft or removable hard tops, and a plethora of accessories to enhance the off- and on-road Jeeping experience.
The Hemmings Marketplace is home to a good many Jeep Wranglers, and these two collector-quality YJs beg the question- can you embrace the Eighties styling and recognize the goodness within these modern classics?
This first-year Wrangler features the torquey inline-six engine and column-shift automatic, retrimmed seating with a center console, and it’s been accessorized with aftermarket wheels, body-trim brightwork, a bikini top, and a CD stereo, and more.
The seller purchased the Jeep in October of 2016. It was already a spectacle show-type Jeep. The restoration was performed in 2012 at the odometer reading of 136,402. The seller serviced the Jeep very well, and recently installed a new radiator. He has only put 5,000 (or so) miles on the Jeep since he’s owned it. It’s been a “fun go-to-the-beach” car. The engine is the original 4.2 inline-6. The car has been kept inside at the seller’s estate. Overview of my opinions: drives great – tuned well. Good smooth acceleration, transmission shifts smooth, solid suspension; nice feel to the ride, steering does not have any excessive slop or play at all, the brakes are excellent, tires have lots of tread on them – no strange odors in the interior, not a smoked-in car, no weird old-Jeep smells. The underbelly is clean – We are told that the car has always parked inside – it was never stored outside.
This 1991 Wrangler is an ultra-low-mileage example powered by the multi-port-injected four-cylinder mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. It’s got steel half doors and a folding soft top, seat covers, woodgrain dash trim, locking storage boxes, and an anti-theft alarm.
Only driven on nice days and seeing little (if any) off-road duty, this pampered 1991 Jeep Wrangler has just 15,382 miles on its odometer. And it looks and drives like it does, as well, having been properly stored and maintained throughout its 34 years. Walk around the Wrangler and you’ll be amazed at its rust-free and arrow-straight original body and its beautiful original bright red paint. Even the original steelie wheels are still on the Jeep — no ridiculously oversized wheels and tires here. The underside is rock-solid and there are side step rails to make it easier to hop in and out. A soft top and half doors add to the Wrangler’s playful nature. Inside, it is similarly impressive: to preserve the original upholstery, handsome two-tone fitted seat covers are in place. Other highlights include full instrumentation, wooden dash accents, custom lockable storage boxes front and rear, a 400-watt inverter, a Chapman alarm system and two sets of keys. Under the hood is Jeep’s stout 2.5-liter inline-four. Known for its reliability and longevity, it also provides better fuel economy than the big inline-six. A 5-speed manual gearbox adds to the fun of wheeling this Wrangler around and of course it has 4-wheel drive. A recent front brake service has been performed and notably the Jeep still has its original exhaust system apart from a replaced muffler. It is turn-key ready to go and there is plenty of time ahead for summer cruising and fall foliage rides! With its combination of incredibly low mileage and amazing condition, this Wrangler must be seen and driven to be believed.
Do Today’s Collectors Want These Modern-Classic 4x4s?
For many years, the answer to that question was, “Not really.” A 2018 HemmingsStock Exchange feature highlighting the YJ indicated that, at that time, this model was in “used-car-value limbo.” This is changing, although first-generation Wranglers are still the Porsche 996s of Jeeps: they remain the most affordable way to get into the driver’s seat, despite having caught the attention of the RADwood crowd. The best examples –attractively modified versions and well-kept originals, especially in upmarket trim– are starting to bring real money, with classic.com noting YJ Wranglers have a current average public-sale value of nearly $15,000.
Are you a Jeep kind of person? And if so, would you rock a “square light” Wrangler?
I’ve met plenty of people in my time here at Hemmings who have declared, “They’re going to bury me in it,” when referencing a beloved car. I don’t doubt their sincerity, but I have yet to know anyone personally whose car has joined them under the earth upon shifting off the mortal coil— the human coil, that is.
If we love these things so much, why are there some cars for some people that become “forever” cars? Ostensibly, they are transportation appliances, and we generally don’t keep appliances forever. I suppose we would if we could, but given the nature of appliances today… alas, fodder for a different column. Those household appliances surely don’t fire up our senses quite like our automobiles. I know the specs and details of my vehicles past and present but can hardly quote the power of my oven or the rpm of the rotating glass plate in my microwave.
I bought my BMW M coupe new in 2002. I never intended it to be a forever car.
It was supposed to be just one in another series of fun, somewhat irresponsible things I drove until I did something age appropriate and properly grew up, like buying a minivan.
At the time, it was perfect: small, nimble and powered by a high-revving inline-six—all the things I cared about in a car. It had a hatchback with space for a suitcase or two in the cargo area. What more could I possibly need?
Though I don’t drive it as much, I still love getting behind the wheel of that BMW. When stomping the throttle of its solid-lifter, twin-cam engine, holding back shifting until close to that 7,600-rpm redline, any thoughts of wanting to do something responsible, minivan-related or otherwise, go right out the window.
I just never expected to keep it as long as I have. I’m a big fan of classic coupes, and I saw the M coupe as the 21st century version of the MG C/GT or Porsche 928. I figured that my time with it would be brief as those more responsible vehicles began to populate the driveway, just as the population of our family grew.
There was a brief time immediately after the birth of our first child, while we were living in the heart of New York City in a one-bedroom apartment, when the two-seat hatchback was our only car. “Somewhat irresponsible” would probably qualify as an understatement. There are probably some points I still have not paid back to Señora Shea for tolerating that move. Thank goodness she doesn’t keep score. She doesn’t, right?
Walking by the M in the garage the other day (on my way to the minivan in the driveway), I thought about those folks who plan to keep their cars forever. Recently, I talked to my friend Richard, whose 1966 Shelby G.T. 350 we featured in Hemmings Muscle Machines 13 years ago. He bought the stripe-delete, four-speed Shelby new to use in competition.
For six years, Richard rode in the right seat of that Shelby while his good friend Walter piloted the car in dozens of SCCA rallies. After occasional use over the next two decades, Richard and a friend restored the car.
An active member of the Shelby club for many years now, Richard is quite sure he’s the last original owner of a 1966 Shelby G.T. 350. Despite its unimpeachable provenance and history, the Shelby is hardly a garage queen. When Richard offered me the chance to drive the G.T. 350 for the article, it had 172,000 miles on it. Today, that number is closing in on 200,000. Richard and his wife, P.K., still take it to various Shelby gatherings, other car shows, and regular Sunday donut runs with fellow automobile aficionados. After all this time, he still really enjoys the car.
I suppose there was a time I kept the BMW just because. Just because it was already in the garage. Just because I didn’t need to sell it. Just because I’ve been damn lucky not to need to sell it.
Will I keep the BMW forever? I can’t say right now. There might come a time when I no longer enjoy driving it. Maybe I will need to sell it at some point. I’ve only got half the mileage on it that Richard has on his 59-year-old Shelby. I can say, however, please don’t bury me in it. It would be a shame for such a fun car to no longer be enjoyed when I am gone.
The MG T-Series cars started the sports car craze in America. When servicemen brought their MG TCs back to the U.S. after World War II, Americans had not seen anything like them before. These small sporting cars handled better than anything built in North America. They also looked great, which helped sell thousands of T-Series cars in the U.S.
After the prewar-based MG TC came the more modern yet still classic-looking TD, followed by the final T-Series car—and the one many think of as the most beautiful of them all—the MG TF.
The TF incorporated the headlights into the fender, making for a more streamlined look. The interior was also upgraded, with the bench seat replaced with buckets and the dashboard now featuring octagon-shaped gauges similar to MG’s earlier sporting cars of the 1920s and ’30s.
The MG TF, though, was not a success, as cars from Triumph and other manufacturers began offering better performance and more modern amenities. MG sold a total of only 13,002 MG TF models—not a lot when compared to the almost 30,000 TDs sold.
The seller states this 1954 MG TF roadster has been driven only 1,000 miles since its 1999 restoration and has 75,404 according to the title. This is an award-winning example with a long list of First Place awards and a “Best Of” at British car and MG gatherings in the Philadelphia region. If a T-Series has been on your radar, the seller maintains this one should be seriously considered—and I agree, as it looks like a great car, with tens of thousands of dollars spent on the restoration.
Looking at the photos, everything appears correct, something not common on many T-Series vehicles. It often seems as though people feel they have a better idea and try to upgrade these cars with things like incorrect wood dashboards and then go cheap and use vinyl on the seats. This is not one of those cars.
The exterior looks excellent and is painted in the correct MG TF color of MG Red. The chrome not only looks correct but also appears to be in as good of shape as the paintwork. It is both correct and nicely done.
The interior is the same, with the correct red leather used on the seats. All trim looks like it should for a correctly restored car. I simply love this car’s octagon gauges and the original steering wheel.
Under the hood is the correct, clean, and show-worthy 76.3ci inline four-cylinder XPAG engine, which was factory-rated at 57.5 horsepower. It is fed by a pair of correct SU carburetors with the correct air cleaners. The correct four-speed manual transmission sends power to 4.875 gears in back and drum brakes are on both the front and rear wheels.
This car also features wire wheels (optional at the time), which I feel every TF needs to look its best.
This TF is also super-clean underneath. The maroon paint used on the engine block also shows on the transmission for a bit more dress-up appeal. The single exhaust flows through a stock-style muffler. The suspension consists of coil springs up front and leaf springs in the rear. The hardware, knuckles, wiring, and frame are all clean and show-worthy.
The seller also includes a drivability report in which (s)he describes this MG TF as a well-sorted show car that provides a trouble-free ride and, despite the horsepower numbers, delivers a spirited drive that—with the top down and low seating position—can only be described as exhilarating. It is a completely analog driving experience, the very essence of what driving a classic British sports car should be and nothing else. The seller adds that everything works, including all light gauges.
If you want a great example of the epitome of a classic British roadster, this MG TF is just the ticket—and, at $36,900, is very nicely priced. Act fast or it will be gone.
This 1940 Ford coupe recently underwent ~$186k worth of work at Hot Rods by Dean. Highlighting the build is the crate Roush 427R V8 that is linked to a heavy-duty Hughes Performance 700R4 automatic and a Winters Performance quick-change rear end. The black-over-tan coupe rides on a TCI chassis with an independent front end, front disc brakes, a four-link rear with coilovers, a Winters Performance 11″ rear brake kit, and steel wheels with Deluxe hubcaps. Inside is bound German square-weave carpeting, air conditioning, a vintage-look cluster, and a Lokar shifter, and the car also has ceramic-coated headers and a dual exhaust system. The seller acquired the car on BaT in in March 2025 for a client, and it is now offered of their behalf in California with records and a clean Arizona title.
The car is believed to have retained the majority of its factory paint, though Hot Rods by Dean performed some body and paintwork during the refurbishment. Thin paint is noted in some areas.
The car rides on a TCI chassis featuring an independent front end with tubular control arms, coilovers, and disc brakes.
The four-link rear has adjustable coilovers and a Winters Performance 11″ drum kit.
The staggered black steel wheels are accented by chrome Ford Deluxe hubcaps.
The interior was overhauled with tan upholstery on the bench seat, bound German square-weave carpeting, a Lokar shifter, and Vintage Air climate control.
Classic Instruments supplied the vintage-look cluster, and the reproduction steering wheel is from Roadster Supply. The 78 miles indicated represents the mileage driven since completion of the build.
The crate Roush 427R V8 is topped by an Edelbrock Super Victor intake manifold and a Holley double-pumper carburetor, and the BBK headers are ceramic-coated. The Johnson’s radiator is cooled by a Zirgo electric fan.
The heavy-duty Hughes Performance 700R4 has a 3,000-RPM stall converter and is linked to a Winters Performance big-bearing, quick-change rear end with a polished housing. The dual exhaust system utilizes Borla mufflers.
Records outlining the ~$186k worth of work are detailed in the gallery.
