When Alfa Romeo folded its tents and left the U.S. market in 1995, its product line had been reduced to the 164 LS sedan and its upmarket sibling, the 164 Quadrifoglio. (The ancient Spider was withdrawn after 1994, but another 40 trickled off dealers’ lots in the following year.) Meanwhile, back in Milan, the company had been busy creating a new generation of cars that American Alfisti could only dream about. One of those was the 145.
This 1996 Alfa Romeo 145 2.0 that we found in the Hemmings Marketplace is a good example of the car we were denied 30 years ago, but are now allowed to import. It’s a three-door design — Europeans were always more accepting than Americans of the idea of a premium hatchback — and was the replacement for the Alfa Romeo 33, yet another model not sold here. In Quadrifoglio form, with the same 2-liter, Twin Spark inline-four that powers this car, it was Alfa’s hot hatch for the mid-1990s.
Although the design was shaped in the wind tunnel, resulting in a low 0.32 coefficient of drag, Alfa boasted that this was no jelly-bean shape, like so many of is contemporaries. “Such was the genius of the 145 design team that any temptation to let the laws of aerodynamics take control and produce a bland ‘jelly-mould’ shape was firmly resisted. The result is a visual triumph, an Alfa Romeo worthy of its illustrious predecessors,” the company said. That design team was led by Chris Bangle, during his seven years at Centro Stile Fiat before his departure for BMW.
Automotive critics found it hard to pigeonhole the 145, which featured wraparound glass behind the front doors, but it was generally agreed that it was a useful design that could be configured in a number of ways. Alfa Romeo themselves realized that there was a market for a more conventional body style on the same platform, introducing the 146 five-door seven months after the 145’s April 1994 unveiling. (Though the 146 looked like a conventional sedan, it, too, was a hatchback.)
The Type 903A, as it was known in-house, was based on Fiat’s front-wheel-drive, unit-body Tipo Due platform, which was also the basis of the contemporary Fiat Tipo, Lancia Delta, and Alfa Romeo Spider and GTV models, among others. It could accommodate both Alfa’s horizontally-opposed four-cylinder engines, mounted longitudinally, and its inline-fours, mounted transversely. The most powerful of these engines was the 16-valve, DOHC, 1,970-cc Twin Spark inline-four, which was rated at 153 hp at 6,400 rpm and 138 lb-ft of torque at 3,500 rpm. This engine was borrowed from the Alfa Romeo 155, which was dominating European touring car championships.
As the name implies, the alloy head of the Twin Spark incorporates two spark plugs per cylinder. Getting dual plugs to fit in a combustion chamber that already held four valves was no small feat; the engineers put one in the center, for maximum efficiency, and a second, smaller-diameter plug on the edge of the chamber between an inlet and an exhaust valve. Though impact on overall performance wasn’t significant, the second valve let the engine idle more smoothly in lean conditions.
The 145 featured MacPherson struts up front and a trailing arm suspension in the rear. Buyers had a choice of one transmission, a five-speed manual. Power-assisted rack-and-pinion steering was also standard equipment. The 145 was a sales success for Alfa Romeo, with some 221,000 produced between 1994 and 2000.
This 145 is being offered for sale by a classic car dealer in Brazil that has been in the export/import business since 1997 and can ship worldwide. The asking price of $10,000 does not include shipping fees. According to the seller, the 145 was refurbished at 80,000 miles by a local Alfa Romeo specialist, getting new paintwork and a variety of new components, including engine rings and pistons, clutch, shock absorbers, battery, brake discs and pads, and more. About 30,000 miles have been added since the work was done.
If you’re interested in a seldom-seen, fun-to-drive hot hatch with a great pedigree and that won’t break the bank, this 145 might be your cup of limoncello.
It is low to the earth, a wedge-shaped Italian from the 1970s in a blinding shade of yellow. It looks like a car from an electric racing track set. The number gumballs, riveted-on flares and the sponsor stickers tell the tale: this is a racing machine that was destined to do more than be parked outside of a fancy restaurant. It’s a 1977 Ferrari 512 Berlinetta Boxer that was modified by Carrozzeria AutoSport, and it looks ready to start cranking out laps at Monza.
While there is no doubting a Ferrari’s racing pedigree, thanks to the course that Enzo Ferrari plotted for his company from the beginning through his end with the F40 program, there can be doubts placed on the road cars. Is it a racing car, or just a racy car? From the view of someone who doesn’t tread in the world of Italian exotics, it’s a proper question. Most Ferrari road cars are racy. They make the noise, they have the speed, but many times they exist as a status symbol. They are like a bespoke suit, a high-end watch, or a yacht; meaning, they exist to enhance the reputation and status of the owner more than any other reason.
On the other side of the coin are the true racing machines from Maranello. Ferrari racing cars don’t make good pets. They are temperamental. They require an owner with deep pockets, a knowledgeable wrench well-versed in V12 wizardry and every quirk that comes with a hand-built Italian job, and a driver with solid brass ones who can wring every ounce of performance from the machine without parking the car in the weeds. Make no mistake, when race day comes around a skilled driver will struggle to find a better set of wheels. Few cars can perform in the way a Ferrari can.
Ferraris aren’t “middle ground” cars. They either are, or they aren’t. But in this case, we can see a proper exception for this Boxer. It is a street car, legal for the roadways, mild-mannered enough to live for a drive in the countryside or some winding road in the hills. We admit, the provided video of the car out on a romp helps a bit. Convincing yourself that the car is legal as you click-click through the gears, shifting at 6,500 RPM might be a bit harder than you first anticipate. The growl of that 4.9-liter twelve has the kind of exhaust note that can grab the ear of any anyone who is within earshot.
Imagine settling into that seat. Strapping on those belts. Firing off that hand-built twelve and cracking open those Weber carburetors for a quick rev. Grab that shifter handle, drop it into first gear, and letting that heavy clutch out. For kids who played games like OutRun or the Rad Racer video games, the idea of hopping into a Ferrari and hitting the road sounds like a dream come true. In a Ferrari with a proper body kit, air intakes on the roof and better deep dishes than what you can find in Chicago, what’s stopping you from experiencing a little of that magic for yourself? Only 929 of the 512 BB were made, and only 2,323 total Berlinetta Boxers were produced by Maranello between 1973 and 1984. Rare, hand-formed by the artisans at Pininfarina, and decidedly angry, this Boxer needs a workout. Will you be the kind of owner who allows it?
I love junkyards, and have since I was a kid. There are fewer of them these days, but on occasion I still see a promising one on the edge of town, and I take the time to have a look. It all started when I was in the third grade in Santa Monica, California. To get to my elementary school I had to walk through an industrial area that included a tire shop, a lumberyard, and most importantly, an automotive salvage yard.
On occasion my pals and I used to sneak through the gate, past the small trailer that housed the proprietor, who was a hugely overweight fellow with a red face. We would climb in the cars and pretend to be chasing bad guys or running from the police, and we would check glove compartments for treasures such as bottle openers—that is until the owner spotted us and chased us out. We were young and agile, and he was the size of a Buick Roadmaster, so there was no danger of being caught.
My family moved away the next year, and things got tougher at salvage yards with the advent of junkyard guard dogs. Later, in my teens I remember going to Cavin’s Wrecking in Long Beach, California, to get yet another transmission for a friend’s 1949 Ford. (My friend Frank was hard on gearboxes.) We arrived when they opened, but before we could go out into the yard, Mr. Cavin had to place two big bowls of dog food in a large cage in his office, and then raised a trap door that allowed his two maniacal Dobermans with evil yellow eyes to come rushing in.
By the early 1960’s most junkyards had guard dogs, and they meant business. One salvage yard nearby was even reputed to have an old circus lion to protect the inventory. I also heard about a salvage yard in Detroit that acquired a full-grown chimpanzee for such duties. Unfortunately, the chimp decided to explore other parts of the city, and escaped. He was out for a week before he could be subdued. And then there is a friend in Indiana who told me about being chased onto the hood of a car by a junkyard guard hog.
That is all in the past now, thanks to cameras and electronics, and the fact that it is no longer acceptable to inconvenience thieves. Also, old-style junkyards are disappearing due to environmental concerns. But there are still a few good ones around. For example, in my area there is Pick-a-Part in Wilmington, California, where you can still get under and get dirty.
You need to be properly attired if you are going there. And I am not talking about a tuxedo. Overalls or blue jeans are appropriate, as are a long-sleeved shirt, leather shoes and leather work gloves. I would also take a pair of safety glasses and a small tool box full of hand tools such as combination wrenches, a Crescent wrench, a socket set, and maybe some WD-40 to loosen rusted parts. A multimeter is also handy if you are looking for electronic components.
Going to salvage yards for parts is old-school though. That’s because we have the internet, and of course, Hemmings Motor News, where parts for just about every car ever made are available by mail. I have used both for many years now, and have never been cheated or mistreated.
I call vendors and talk to them to find out if they have what I need, and sound reputable, before giving them my credit card number. Many of them ship worldwide. The only time I ever experienced credit card fraud in my life was at a restaurant in San Francisco many years ago.
Though I no longer frequent junkyards for parts, I still stop and look when I see a promising one. You never know what you’ll find. The last time I stopped at a salvage yard in the desert east of Los Angeles I found a 1947 Packard Custom Super Clipper, a 1967 Chevrolet Camaro, and an American Motors Gremlin. And all of them were restorable.
Junkyards aren’t as common as they used to be, but you can usually enter them without sneaking in, and there are no longer berserk Dobermans to tear you from limb to limb. For me it’s kind of like touring archeological ruins and seeing what once was. In fact, I have even been known to tour junkyards in other countries.
In New Zealand there is a super salvage yard called Horopito Motor Wreckers on the Central North Island that goes way back, and has cars and parts from all over the world. It is the Louvre of junkyards, with acres of cars from every era, plus a couple of huge warehouses. I can spend half a day wandering through their offerings. But that’s just me. If you don’t enjoy such pursuits, stay home and let your mind wander, and browse Hemmings, while sitting in your comfy chair with a cup of coffee.
The era of the Wagon is coming to an end. Volvo, the company which built its reputation on the legacy of its full-size estate cars, has confirmed the discontinuation of its famed V90 wagon and its lifted variant, the V90 Cross Country. The death of the Volvo V90 marks a significant shift for the brand as it shifts away from its traditional long-roof vehicles in favor of the more profitable and popular crossover SUV segment.
The End of an Era
The V90’s cancellation follows a predictable narrative in the current automotive landscape, where low-volume niche models are sacrificed in favor of more profitable offerings.
The current generation of the V90, based on Volvo’s Scalable Product Architecture (SPA) platform, was introduced in 2016. For the final model years in the United States, only the more rugged V90 Cross Country was offered, while the standard wagon was already discontinued.
2021 Volvo V90, photo provided by Volvo.
The discontinuation has been foreshadowed by previous statements from Volvo leadership. Former CEO Jim Rowan hinted at a future without wagons, and current management has proceeded with a product strategy focused on SUVs. The company is doubling down on more profitable, high-demand segments to reduce complexity and costs.
While the V90 was a well-regarded model, its sales figures were dwarfed by its high-riding stablemates. The V90’s fate is a direct result of market demand, which has heavily favored SUVs like the top-selling XC90.
The legacy of the Volvo wagon
For dedicated automotive enthusiasts, Volvo has long been synonymous with the station wagon, or “estate” car. Volvo’s wagons embody the brand’s belief that “people come first,” prioritizing user experience, safety, and utility, which has led to their status as functional yet stylish vehicles.
Volvo wagons began in 1953 with the Duett (“two cars in one”), a dual-purpose vehicle for both work and leisure. Other key wagon models include the more elegant Amazon in 1962, the classic 1962-1969 122S station wagon, and the iconic, long-running 240 Series from 1974 to 1993, which was a best-seller known for its durability and safety innovations. Volvo’s approach emphasized safety and utility over style, a philosophy that continues to define its “people-first” estate cars and has resulted in iconic models like the V90.
The latest V90 was praised for its elegant design, luxurious interior, and its ability to blend the utility of an SUV with the more engaging driving dynamics of a sedan.
A final farewell
The death of the V90 is a sad but pragmatic business decision. While it catered to a passionate audience of enthusiasts, the low sales numbers made its continued production unsustainable.
With the V90’s discontinuation, the smaller V60 Cross Country remains as the last Volvo wagon in the U.S. lineup. While Volvo confirmed its ongoing production for the near term, its long-term future in a segment with declining demand remains in question.
For those who still appreciate the uniquely Scandinavian, understated elegance and practicality of the modern full-size Volvo wagon, you’ll need to check with your local Volvo dealer for any remaining V90 stock. Or, for the lovers of gently used classic cars, check out Hemmings Marketplace, where you might just find your perfect Volvo wagon.
Ever since Nissan first rolled out its high-performance Z Nismo model, we’ve heard cries of protest circulating the internet. Upon its release, the 2024 Nissan Nismo disappointingly left out a manual transmission option, only offering a less-than-thrilling nine-speed automatic. Luckily, Nissan has been listening, and we’ve just heard confirmation that a manual transmission is coming to the Nismo model in the near future.
The current Nismo Z model sends power to the rear wheels via a nine-speed automatic transmission. Nissan said a manual transmission would not be an option because the majority of its customers desire a quick-reacting track car, and its proven that good modern automatics shift quicker than even the best manuals. Even though the automatic transmission, also equipped with a launch mode, was optimized to provide quicker shifting for a more “aggressive” feel, customers still crave the incomparable feeling of clutch action, hence Nissan’s change of tune.
Photo: Nissan
A Manual Transmission Nissan Z Nismo is Coming
Nissan Americas chairman Christian Meunier recently confirmed during an Automotive News podcast that the company will soon add a six-speed manual option to the Z Nismo. This eagerly awaited update will bring the Nismo model in line with the standard Z’s available manual option, although we anticipate that the transmission will be specially modified to handle the Nismo’s extra 20 horsepower and 34 pound-feet of torque offered by its twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter V6.
In total, the Nismo pushes 420 horsepower and 394 pound-feet of torque, which allowed Car and Driver test drivers to accelerate from zero to 60 miles-per-hour in a quick 3.9 seconds with the automatic transmission. Naturally, the manual transmission is likely to be a smidge slower, a small sacrifice for a more engaging driver-focused experience. The Nismo Z also gains a limited-slip differential, a stiffer suspension setup, stronger brakes, and more aggressive bodywork when compared to the standard Z.
The exact date of the manual transmission Nissan Z Nismo model’s release is unknown, though it is speculated it could arrive by the 2027 model year, so get ready for an even more engaging driving experience.
Nissan is Cranking Up The Fun
Nissan has been on a roll lately. Not only is it bringing back the manual transmission to the Z Nismo, it’s also working on reviving the iconic Silvia sports car, likely in hybrid or electric form. The company is also bringing back the Xterra, putting its Pathfinder back on a body-on-frame chassis, is reportedly coming out with a manual Infiniti sports sedan, and has reimagined the Leaf as a compact SUV EV for the 2026 model year.
Nissan also recently reimagined its mid-engine hot hatch concept from 2002. Meanwhile, students from the Nissan Automobile Technical College completed one-off custom creations in time to be displayed at the Tokyo Auto Salon. And, while the R35 generation Nissan GT-R production has ceased, the automaker assures us that the nameplate is here to stay.
In the world of unobtainable American automobiles, the Corvette Grand Sport is right up there with the Duesenberg SSJ and Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe. The product of a secret project guided by the “father of the Corvette,” engineer Zora Arkus-Duntov, just five Grand Sports were produced.
Despite an intended run of 125 Grand Sports for homologation purposes, General Motors brass stopped the project in its tracks. GM was part of the AMA racing ban it had previously agreed to, along with its fellow Detroit automakers. The five cars produced, all among the most valued of American automobiles, remain tightly held in the hands of private collectors.
Fortunately, General Motors realized the error of its ways and now licenses Superformance to build replicas. From what we can tell, Superformance is the only company other than GM itself that is allowed to title its cars as Corvettes. This 1963 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport by Superformance is now listed on the Hemmings Marketplace. It looks a lot like the original and appears to be faithful in all the right ways. It also appears to take the right liberties for drivability and just a skosh of comfort and livability.
Lightweight Corvette Grand Sport
With the goal of the original Grand Sport to win in international sports car racing, Duntov and his crew set about removing well over a thousand pounds from the ’63 Sting Ray coupe. They replaced the original frame with a much lighter aluminum tube frame. A slightly smaller body was made from thinner fiberglass, saving additional weight, even with the big fender flares designed to clear the larger tires all around. Other aluminum components and magnesium wheels contributed to the Grand Sport’s lean ways. Fitted with an all-aluminum 377-cu.in. small-block V8 that breathed through four Weber carburetors, the Grand Sport weighed around 1,900 pounds.
Limited Racing Success for the Grand Sport
Even with GM’s ban and a directive to crush the five existing cars, Duntov spirited several of the cars to privateer teams. After some teething problems were worked out and the cars were fitted with the potent 377 V8, the Grand Sports dominated the Cobras during Nassau Speed Week in 1963. Only the dedicated sports racers were faster. Not coincidentally, a number of Corvette engineers, ostensibly barred from participation by their bosses, conveniently decided to vacation in the Bahamas that week. Some of them may have even traveled with spare parts stuffed into their luggage amidst their swim trunks and sunglasses.
That was pretty much the end of the line for the Grand Sports, though some racing participation followed the next few year. All of the original cars are now in the hands of private collections or museums. They are all undoubtedly among the most valuable Corvettes extant, or even American collector cars for that matter.
Superformance Revives the Grand Sport Legend
Now, with the Superformance version, an enthusiast can drive one without worrying about destroying a priceless piece of history. GM provided support for Superformance in terms of allowing access to original blueprints and molds. With an aluminum pushrod V8 engine and a manual transmission, the basics remain the same as the original. Still, Superformance has taken steps to modernize other areas of the car and make it street legal while still maintaining as much of the original Grand Sport experience as possible.
Powered by a 580-HP, Modified LS2 V8
The 1963 Corvette Grand Sport by Superformance now listed on the Hemmings Marketplace features a heavily modified LS2 V8. In the Corvette C6, Chevrolet rated the all-aluminum, 6.0-liter LS2 at 400 horsepower. In this reimagined Grand Sport, the 6.7-liter, Gen-IV small-block engine (408-cu.in.) wears Lingenfelter Performance valve covers. Atop the V8 is a Borla Induction intake setup with eight individual throttle bodies. It’s not four Webers, but it definitely gives the same racing vibe.
The listing notes an output of 580 horsepower that is routed to the rear axle via a Tremec T56 six-speed manual transmission. That’s the same gearbox that Chevrolet used in the LS2-equipped C6 Corvettes. Stainless-steel headers and side pipes complete the Grand Sport look.
Classic Corvette Grand Sport Livery
The distinctive Grand Sport body, with all its added flair—and actual flares—is finished in a period-correct Pelham Blue. A red center stripe, evocative of the “stinger” hood used on big-block C3s, starts at the rear and ends as a point at the front of the hood. The car wears the livery of the #3 car as entered at the Sebring 12 Hours in 1964 by the Johnson Chevrolet Company, a Texas dealership. Fifteen-inch “FIA-style” wheels with safety-wired center knockoffs complete the look.
Superformance Updates to the Grand Sport
Where Superformance takes some liberties involves the fitment of a four-wheel fully independent suspension with Bilstein coilover shocks and H&R springs. Wilwood disc brakes are on all four wheels. Rack-and-pinion steering is also part of the package as is additional cooling, with an aluminum radiator and an oil cooler. Power windows and air conditioning are part of those modern upgrades to keep the Grand Sport pilot comfortable while channeling his inner Duntov.
It’s highly unlikely that anyone reading this piece will ever own an original Grand Sport. And even less likely that he will take a heavy-footed blast down the road in it. Yes, this 1963 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport by Superformance is not exactly cheap with a $299,950 asking price, but it’s accessible to high-end sports car aficionados. And it’s available and ready to be enjoyed.
Barn finds and classic cars that were once loved, then forgotten in fields or tucked away in buildings often hold stories that tug on our heart strings. In this case, the collection of Mopar muscle cars is not forgotten, but instead holds memories for the man who owns them. In the below video, we get to take a peek at a crown jewel that is parked amongst the Plymouth Barracudas, ’Cudas, Dusters, and Road Runners left to rust – a 1971 ’Cuda with billboard stripes and a Shaker hood.
Parker, the host of YouTube channel Backyard Barn Finds, is a millennial enthusiast known for finding and restoring classic American muscle cars like Camaros and Mustangs. He and his team headed out to Gerald’s Pennsylvania property, where a plethora of Mopars in varying conditions are scattered throughout.
The ‘Cuda Barn Find Holy Grail
There are actually two 1971 Cudas on the property. This model year is the holy grail for Mopar collectors, with the lowest production numbers, the wildest styling and a wide array of factory options that had proud owners driving away with drag strip race-ready muscle cars.
Distinguishable by the shark gills and quad headlights, the 1971 Plymouth Cuda saw fewer than 500 examples factory-equipped with a shaker hood, mostly on Hemi-powered models. The example found by Backyard Barn Finds is exceptionally rare in that is equipped with a 383 cubic-inch V8 mated to a slapstick automatic. It also features power windows, leather buckets, rear defrost, and dash-mounted cassette deck, but in its current state of decay, only the most Mopar-fluent enthusiasts would give the muscle car a second look. In the video, Parker states that this is the rarest Plymouth Cuda he has ever found.
Mopar Memories
During a tour of the property, the owner introduces us to a 1973 Plymouth Barracuda, a muscle car which he bought used and drove as a senior in High School. He converted the car to a 340 cubic-inch pistol grip four-speed. Around that same time, he was fixing up a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner for his cousin, now equipped with a 440 six-pack, which still sits on his property.
We also see a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner V-Code equipped with a 440 Six Pack, still sporting its factory In-Violet finish, not to be confused with Dodge’s Plum Crazy hue. A 1972 Duster with a 340 engine mated to a four-speed transmission is parked nearby, plus a handful of 318-powered Barracudas that have a story of their own. Watch as Backyard Barn Finds uncovers these once-hidden Mopar gems:
In the beginning, the owner states that these cars are not for sale, but later in the video he states some of them “may be for sale.” Contact the Backyard Barn Finds YouTube channel if interested.
Your vehicle’s cooling system is more than just a radiator, water pump, thermostat, fan, and coolant. Well, OK, it is exactly that, but there is a lot more to an effective cooling system than just the parts, they need to be matched to properly cool the engine (and transmission/oil) consistently without overheating. There are so many variables in cooling system design that can cause major headaches. You may think you have a serious engine issue, but you may just have the wrong radiator cap.
We spent some time speaking with Phil Cochran of U.S. Radiator in Gadsen, Alabama, about automotive cooling systems. U.S. Radiator has been building the best in radiators for over 50 years, using American-made parts and materials. When it comes to radiator and cooling system components, you really do not want to skimp on the quality, the life of your engine depends on it. If you have a project that you need assistance with keeping it cool, call U.S. Radiator at 800-421-5975 so their techs can help you solve the problem and get your temps down where they should be.
Are All Radiators The Same?
The simple answer is absolutely not. There are so many different styles and types of engine radiators, it can get confusing, but there are a few styles that are the most common. Prior to the 1980s, pretty much every radiator was made from a copper-brass alloy, which offers the best heat transfer rate. The problem with copper-brass (CB for short) is that the tubes have to be thicker and they use solder to bond each tube to the end plate. This makes CB radiator cores thicker, taking up more space. In the mid-80s, copper and brass became harder to get, so OEMs switched to aluminum radiators. Aluminum also conducts heat well, just not quite as well as CB. The difference is that aluminum tubes are much thinner, so you can fit more rows of tubes in the same space as a CB core.
This is a stack of newly formed Copper-Brass radiator tanks waiting to be mounted to cores at the U.S. Radiator facility in Gadsen, AL. Copper-Brass is more effective at heat transfer, but can’t have as many rows of tubes as aluminum.This U.S. Radiator CB core uses flat-fin technology which allows more contact with the wall of the tube and allows more tubes in the same space. When it comes to radiators, more is usually better.
Why Should I Choose A Copper-Brass Radiator?
CB cores can be repaired, as they are soldered together, where aluminum cores are much harder to repair pinhole leaks. CB cores are not affected by electrolysis, so if you maintain the cooling system and flush it every 2-3 years, your radiator should last a very long time. The main reason to select a CB radiator is the appearance. If you want to keep the original appearance, then a CB radiator does that. U.S. Radiator can even re-core your original radiator with a modern core that has better flow but retains the original tanks, which is important for vehicles built in the 1950s and older, as the VIN and data plates were typically affixed to the radiator tank.
Why Choose An Aluminum Radiator?
Aluminum radiator cores have more rows of tubes with thinner walls, making them more efficient when compared to the same size CB core. “We can move more coolant in a smaller space with aluminum” Cochran told us, “If we leave it based on space alone, we go with aluminum.” That doesn’t mean that aluminum cores are perfect, they do need to be protected from electrolysis, which is an electro-chemical reaction that is present in every engine cooling system. The fix is to run a sacrificial anode in the cooling system. Aluminum radiators are difficult to repair, so when they fail it is a replacement job.
Downflow radiators may limit your options because the core support is only large enough to fit a downflow radiator, there is no room for side tanks. This 1966 GMC Suburban keeps its 5.3 LS engine cool with a downflow aluminum radiator that fills the opening with core. There isn’t room for anything bigger.
What Is The Difference Between Downflow and Crossflow Radiators?
Most radiators were downflow until the mid-60s, when OEMs began using crossflow designs, though many trucks kept the downflow design into the 1970s. A downflow design has tanks on the top and bottom of the radiator. Water flows from the pump to the top of the radiator, filling the tubes and flowing downward to the bottom tank, where it is pulled back into the engine. When comparing apples to apples, if the cores are the same size and design, along with the tanks, then there is not much difference in efficiency. Crossflow radiators have several benefits that downflow units don’t. Cooling systems are pressurized, and the radiator cap is there to manage the pressure. Downflow radiators can only have the cap on the hot side (where hot coolant exits the engine), so this is the highest-pressure area, allowing the cap to vent prematurely. This is a small benefit, but worth mentioning.
You are not stuck with a basic radiator, you can always have a new unit made with U.S. Radiator’s Tripleflow core, which works for both crossflow and downflow radiators.
What Is A Dual or Triple Flow Radiator?
In many cases, you can order a new radiator that looks like a typical radiator but is divided internally into two or three sections. A typical radiator flows all the coolant through the entire core in one pass. A dual or triple flow core splits the core so that the coolant flows through each section of the core, giving the coolant more time to transfer heat, making it far more efficient. The U.S. Radiator Tripleflow option can drop engine temps up to 20%, which is a huge gain. If you have a hot-running engine, this could be the difference you need.
Radiator caps are not all the same, in fact, getting the wrong one can be a disaster. This is a modern cap, which seals the expansion tank. Note this is a 15psi system. Many newer vehicles don’t even have a cap on the radiator itself.
Why Are There So Many Different Radiator Caps?
If you have ever been to a parts store, you probably noticed about a million radiator caps. While some of this is due to OEMs not using a standard cap size (Asian cars have very small caps for example), there is also a difference in the pressure relief. Heat means pressure, and your cooling system has a limit on how much pressure it can contain; this is where the cap relief valve vents to purge that excess pressure. When you get steam pouring out from under the hood, that is the cap venting.
“How your cooling system pressure is managed is a critical component to the overall design” says Cochran, “Open or closed recovery systems change the pressures inside the main cooling system.” The first closed-loop cooling systems for automobiles came out in the late 1930s, but they were not standard until the late 1980s. Even GM has used both systems in the same model with different packages. For example, a 1968 Buick GS had a standard closed system, but that would be an optional accessory on a Skylark. There are different pressure rates for various engines and cooling system types. The most common are 15 PSI for closed systems, and 7-15 PSI for open systems. Some race cars use 20- to 30-lb. caps, but that is not for the street.
An open system vents to a bottle, can, or to the ground (not very environmentally sound!) and uses a single-seal cap. When the coolant pressure exceeds the cap rating, the valve opens, sending coolant into the overflow tank. Closed systems are much more efficient. These use a double-acting cap which purges extra pressure and draws reserve coolant into the system when it is cold. The tank on a closed system is an expansion tank, serving to maintain the coolant level in the system when hot and cold.
Why Does Radiator Cap Pressure Matter?
“A change in pressure of 1 psi results in a 3-degree change in temperature” says Cochran, “If your engine calls for a 15 PSI cap, but the one that is actually on the radiator is only holding to 7 PSI, you can see engine temperatures 27 degrees higher than you should.” The opposite is also true, as water boils at 212-degrees at sea level, but at 6200 ft, it boils at 200, this is the difference in pressure. While a higher-pressure cap will push the boiling point higher, the pressure inside the system can reach unsafe levels. Remember, the hoses, pump, and gaskets are under the same pressure and temperature, ballooning the hoses with higher pressures is a recipe for disaster. Another key point on caps- Stay away from the cheap overseas caps, buy a quality US-made cap so you can be sure it will actually vent at the correct pressure.
Auxiliary coolers like this transmission cooler, are often strapped to the radiator core with special zip ties. These will eventually rub a hole in the tubes. They also reduce the flow through the radiator.
Do I Need An External Or Internal Transmission Cooler?
This is a common issue for gearheads, especially when swapping transmissions from manual to auto. All automatics need a cooler to maintain the 175-degree optimum running temperature. The best way to do this is to use an internal transmission cooler in the radiator. The reason for this is that transmissions do not like cold temperatures, ATF is much thicker at room temp than at 175, in fact AFT doesn’t thin out to the correct viscosity until it reaches 160 degrees, so if your transmission is running colder than 160, the fluid is putting more strain on the valves and seals. An internal cooler helps bring the ATF temp up faster so that your transmission is running at the optimum temperature.
External coolers are unregulated, so they will cool as much as possible, often taking the temps too low. If you are experiencing higher transmission temps or tow, then you may need both. An auxiliary cooler mounted after the internal cooler to reduce the fluid temps a bit more before they go into the transmission.
Why Not Run An External Transmission Cooler On The Radiator?
The main reason is that it increases the stack-up in front of the radiator, inhibiting the airflow through the core. Imagine a modified muscle car with AC (condenser in front), auto trans (cooler behind AC condenser) and then the radiator core, that is a substantial stack in front of the core. You can easily block 1/2-2/3rds of the core with these two alone, not to mention that the air that flows through the core is now much hotter than it would have been. Then let’s add an intercooler for boost, which goes in front of all of the rest, so you have a lot of mass reducing flow. Internal coolers are more efficient and reduce the overall stack-up, which is why they are recommended.
Mechanical cooling fans must have a shroud to generate the draw through the core. Without a shroud, you might as well not have a fan at all.
Do I Need A Radiator Cooling Fan?
Moving beyond the radiator, the rest of the system is just as important. The biggest mistake many gearheads make with their cooling system is the fan. Mechanical fans are just fine, but they eat horsepower and are not controllable. Electric fans are the best option for any car that is not restrained by originality. Regardless of the fan style, all fans should be shrouded, especially mechanical fans. Without a shroud, a mechanical fan is just stirring up the air around it, there is little draw through the radiator at all. With a shroud, the fan generates a vacuum, pulling air into the radiator. This is only important below 40 mph, once the vehicle is moving 40 or faster, the natural airflow takes over.
Electric fans are the best way to go, as they are temperature controlled, do not eat horsepower, and can be turned on under varying conditions such as when the AC is running. That last part is really nice for 2-speed or multiple fans. They should also be shrouded, as shown on this 1974 El Camino.This Ford F150 was built for U.S. Radiator’s owner Phil Cochran. They use a set of fan rings to support the fans instead of the dreaded zip ties. Sometimes there just isn’t enough room for a shroud.
Electric fans should be shrouded as well. The recommended distance between the fan and the radiator is 1-2”, with a full shroud covering the entire fan-side of the core. This forces the air through the entire core instead of just the area directly in front of the fan. It is very common to see electric fans mounted to a radiator with special zip ties, while this works, it will eventually rub a hole in the core. A shroud is far better, but a fan ring is the suitable solution for tight-fit vehicles where a shroud is less feasible. Fan rings mount to the perimeter of the radiator, eliminating the risk to the core.
The coolant must match the system and any remaining coolant in the system. You have to flush multiple times if you are changing coolant types. Pro-Tip: Instead of pouring like a milk jug, turn the bottle on its side as shown. This is glug-free, no-mess way to pour any fluid.
Is There Really A Difference In Coolant Types?
There are many formulations for coolant as each manufacturer has their specific formulations, however in the United States, there are three main type of engine coolant: Original Green Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology or OAT-Based, and Hybrid OAT G-05 and G-11 coolants. You may ask “why does this matter to me, I have a 1970 Chevelle, the old green stuff is fine.” If you have the original engine, then sure, you would be right, but if you have LS swapped that Chevelle?
IAT (Classic Green) coolant is silicate-based ethylene-glycol. It is very good at what it does, but for a very limited time. IAT coolant is good for 2-3 years, after that it doesn’t work well too resist freezing and begins to eat the rubber in the hoses and seals. It is highly recommended than any engine using IAT coolant be flushed every other year with a chemical flush and then refilled with fresh coolant. Remember, IAT coolant is toxic to all living things, so dispose of it properly.
IAT coolant does not mix well with aluminum, over time the coolant will eat away at the aluminum, including the radiator, block, and heads. This is the main reason OAT coolants were developed. If you have an aluminum radiator, you should be running OAT or HOAT coolant.
OAT coolant goes by many brand names; one such name is Dexcool. While Dex was named the culprit by shade tree mechanics in a massive recall by GM in the 1990s, the actual issue was an incompatible plastic used for gaskets. The coolant melted the plastic over time, but Dex got the blame. GM still uses the exact same OAT coolant; the gaskets were changed. This stuff has longer life, up to 10 years, but we still recommend flushing it every 3-4 years, as OAT coolants do not like air, and will sludge up over time. This is the reason that all modern vehicles have fully sealed cooling system with no vents on the expansion tanks. OAT coolant does not like copper-brass, so if you have an older vehicle with a CB radiator, IAT is going to be the best choice.
The newest type of coolant is HOAT. Because IAT and OAT coolants can NEVER be mixed (they turn to sludge immediately), a hybrid coolant was developed, using a little of both technologies. Most OEMs use HOATs now (GM is the odd duck, sticking with Dexcool). With a solid 5-year lifespan, you can safely use HOAT coolant in place of either type for 5 full years. This is the “All-Makes” coolant you see at the store.
Sludge is what happens when you don’t flush your cooling system often enough. These tubes are corroded and plugged with gunk. You want this garbage floating around in your engine? Neither do we.
Tap Water Is Good Enough, Right?
NOPE. While just about every one of us has done it, filling your cooling system with tap water is a terrible option. The minerals in tap water create all kinds of havoc, including sludge, corrosion, crystalline formations, and some even become acidic when mixed with phosphates. Many import coolant formulations such as Honda and Toyota use heavier phosphates, hard water (high in calcium and magnesium) reacts very poorly with phosphates and can severely damage your engine over time. Tap water is also a major contributor to electrolysis in cooling systems. You should only use distilled water mixed 50/50 with the proper coolant. Better yet, you really should consider buying pre-mixed coolant, which ensures that you are getting all the good stuff and none of the bad stuff and you don’t have to mix it. Yes, You are “paying for water,” but it is the right water. Your Brita filter is not good enough; you need chemically pure water to avoid the contamination.
My Engine Is Running Hot, Can I Just Run A Cooler Thermostat?
This myth is one of the worst there is, as the thermostat does not have any control over the operating temperature of your engine. Your engine is going to run as hot as it is going to run based on the cooling system parameters. A properly designed system will maintain the temperature in a safe range. The only thing the thermostat does is open and close at a specific temperature, it is actually regulating the minimum temperature, not the top end. A 160-degree Tstat begins to open around 135-140 degrees and is fully open at 160. When the temps fall below 160, the Tstat begins to close until the temps rise again. If you have too high of a tstat, your engine will get up to temp faster, but you are closing off some of your cooling range, going to a cooler temp unit will only open the flow faster.
There are reasons to run a higher or lower thermostat, such as you want to be able to use the heater sooner from a cold start, or your engine needs to get up to a higher temp faster. Most modern engine ECMs don’t even turn the fans on until the engine is at 205-degrees, so going from 190 to a 170 tstat won’t do a thing to reduce the operating temperature unless the previous tstat was higher than the cooling system’s efficiency.
AS you can see, there is a lot more to cooling systems than just the raw parts, every piece of the puzzle needs to be compatible, from the radiator to the coolant and water you use. This article is a “5,000-foot view” of engine cooling systems. You can learn more on each of the above sections by clicking the links in the text above for each section. Gearheads spend the most money on their engines, why would you put it at risk by running the original 6-cylinder radiator and tap water?
Everybody loves a Jeep! But that affection is sometimes conditional…
The Wrangler is now in its fourth generation, with the best-selling current JL-chassis version having been on sale since 2018, and facelifted for 2024. This model –the one everyone pictures when they hear the word “Jeep”– has World War II origins, but it debuted in this form for 1987 with the YJ-chassis Wrangler, built through 1995. While the YJ offered more comfort, stability, and modernity than the long-serving yet controversial CJ, it was vilified by the hardest of Jeep’s hardcore fans primarily for the nontraditional appearance of its front end, courtesy of a pair of rectangular sealed-beam headlights (plus matching secondary lighting) flanking a kinked grille. The modernized 4×4 was lower, wider, and handled better on the road than its predecessors, making it better suited to the carlike everyday use its owners were subjecting it to. Indeed, forthcoming Wrangler variants would bring new meaning to this Jeep once allegedly called “America’s Sports Car.”
The sportiest Jeep of this era –and one of the most valuable today— was the body-kitted 1991-’94 Wrangler Renegade. Photo courtesy of Stellantis Media
Something Borrowed, Something New
The new Jeep was released to the public the year that Chrysler bought the brand as part of its purchase of American Motors, and AMC had worked very hard to engineer it with capability befitting the marque. The Wrangler used Jeep’s Command-Trac selectable 4WD system and could be ordered with two AMC-sourced engines: a fuel-injected 2.5-liter/150-cu.in. (117 hp/135 lb-ft) inline-four mated to a five-speed manual or a carbureted 4.2-liter/258-cu.in. (112 hp/210 lb-ft) inline-six paired with the five-speed or optional three-speed automatic. The much-loved, fuel-injected 4.0-liter (180 hp/220 lb-ft) inline-six came online for 1991 when the newly multi-port-injected four made 123 hp/139 lb-ft; the roll cage structure was redesigned for 1992 to offer an upper mounting point for rear shoulder harnesses; anti-lock brakes became available for 1993; and the automatic could be paired with the four-cylinder for ’94. Wrangler buyers could choose many different trim levels, including the bold Renegade, the upmarket Laredo and Sahara, the Islander, and the Rio Grande. They could have half or full hard doors, folding soft or removable hard tops, and a plethora of accessories to enhance the off- and on-road Jeeping experience.
The Hemmings Marketplace is home to a good many Jeep Wranglers, and these two collector-quality YJs beg the question- can you embrace the Eighties styling and recognize the goodness within these modern classics?
This first-year Wrangler features the torquey inline-six engine and column-shift automatic, retrimmed seating with a center console, and it’s been accessorized with aftermarket wheels, body-trim brightwork, a bikini top, and a CD stereo, and more.
The seller purchased the Jeep in October of 2016. It was already a spectacle show-type Jeep. The restoration was performed in 2012 at the odometer reading of 136,402. The seller serviced the Jeep very well, and recently installed a new radiator. He has only put 5,000 (or so) miles on the Jeep since he’s owned it. It’s been a “fun go-to-the-beach” car. The engine is the original 4.2 inline-6. The car has been kept inside at the seller’s estate. Overview of my opinions: drives great – tuned well. Good smooth acceleration, transmission shifts smooth, solid suspension; nice feel to the ride, steering does not have any excessive slop or play at all, the brakes are excellent, tires have lots of tread on them – no strange odors in the interior, not a smoked-in car, no weird old-Jeep smells. The underbelly is clean – We are told that the car has always parked inside – it was never stored outside.
This 1991 Wrangler is an ultra-low-mileage example powered by the multi-port-injected four-cylinder mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. It’s got steel half doors and a folding soft top, seat covers, woodgrain dash trim, locking storage boxes, and an anti-theft alarm.
Only driven on nice days and seeing little (if any) off-road duty, this pampered 1991 Jeep Wrangler has just 15,382 miles on its odometer. And it looks and drives like it does, as well, having been properly stored and maintained throughout its 34 years. Walk around the Wrangler and you’ll be amazed at its rust-free and arrow-straight original body and its beautiful original bright red paint. Even the original steelie wheels are still on the Jeep — no ridiculously oversized wheels and tires here. The underside is rock-solid and there are side step rails to make it easier to hop in and out. A soft top and half doors add to the Wrangler’s playful nature. Inside, it is similarly impressive: to preserve the original upholstery, handsome two-tone fitted seat covers are in place. Other highlights include full instrumentation, wooden dash accents, custom lockable storage boxes front and rear, a 400-watt inverter, a Chapman alarm system and two sets of keys. Under the hood is Jeep’s stout 2.5-liter inline-four. Known for its reliability and longevity, it also provides better fuel economy than the big inline-six. A 5-speed manual gearbox adds to the fun of wheeling this Wrangler around and of course it has 4-wheel drive. A recent front brake service has been performed and notably the Jeep still has its original exhaust system apart from a replaced muffler. It is turn-key ready to go and there is plenty of time ahead for summer cruising and fall foliage rides! With its combination of incredibly low mileage and amazing condition, this Wrangler must be seen and driven to be believed.
Do Today’s Collectors Want These Modern-Classic 4x4s?
For many years, the answer to that question was, “Not really.” A 2018 HemmingsStock Exchange feature highlighting the YJ indicated that, at that time, this model was in “used-car-value limbo.” This is changing, although first-generation Wranglers are still the Porsche 996s of Jeeps: they remain the most affordable way to get into the driver’s seat, despite having caught the attention of the RADwood crowd. The best examples –attractively modified versions and well-kept originals, especially in upmarket trim– are starting to bring real money, with classic.com noting YJ Wranglers have a current average public-sale value of nearly $15,000.
Are you a Jeep kind of person? And if so, would you rock a “square light” Wrangler?
I’ve met plenty of people in my time here at Hemmings who have declared, “They’re going to bury me in it,” when referencing a beloved car. I don’t doubt their sincerity, but I have yet to know anyone personally whose car has joined them under the earth upon shifting off the mortal coil— the human coil, that is.
If we love these things so much, why are there some cars for some people that become “forever” cars? Ostensibly, they are transportation appliances, and we generally don’t keep appliances forever. I suppose we would if we could, but given the nature of appliances today… alas, fodder for a different column. Those household appliances surely don’t fire up our senses quite like our automobiles. I know the specs and details of my vehicles past and present but can hardly quote the power of my oven or the rpm of the rotating glass plate in my microwave.
I bought my BMW M coupe new in 2002. I never intended it to be a forever car.
It was supposed to be just one in another series of fun, somewhat irresponsible things I drove until I did something age appropriate and properly grew up, like buying a minivan.
At the time, it was perfect: small, nimble and powered by a high-revving inline-six—all the things I cared about in a car. It had a hatchback with space for a suitcase or two in the cargo area. What more could I possibly need?
Though I don’t drive it as much, I still love getting behind the wheel of that BMW. When stomping the throttle of its solid-lifter, twin-cam engine, holding back shifting until close to that 7,600-rpm redline, any thoughts of wanting to do something responsible, minivan-related or otherwise, go right out the window.
I just never expected to keep it as long as I have. I’m a big fan of classic coupes, and I saw the M coupe as the 21st century version of the MG C/GT or Porsche 928. I figured that my time with it would be brief as those more responsible vehicles began to populate the driveway, just as the population of our family grew.
There was a brief time immediately after the birth of our first child, while we were living in the heart of New York City in a one-bedroom apartment, when the two-seat hatchback was our only car. “Somewhat irresponsible” would probably qualify as an understatement. There are probably some points I still have not paid back to Señora Shea for tolerating that move. Thank goodness she doesn’t keep score. She doesn’t, right?
Walking by the M in the garage the other day (on my way to the minivan in the driveway), I thought about those folks who plan to keep their cars forever. Recently, I talked to my friend Richard, whose 1966 Shelby G.T. 350 we featured in Hemmings Muscle Machines 13 years ago. He bought the stripe-delete, four-speed Shelby new to use in competition.
For six years, Richard rode in the right seat of that Shelby while his good friend Walter piloted the car in dozens of SCCA rallies. After occasional use over the next two decades, Richard and a friend restored the car.
An active member of the Shelby club for many years now, Richard is quite sure he’s the last original owner of a 1966 Shelby G.T. 350. Despite its unimpeachable provenance and history, the Shelby is hardly a garage queen. When Richard offered me the chance to drive the G.T. 350 for the article, it had 172,000 miles on it. Today, that number is closing in on 200,000. Richard and his wife, P.K., still take it to various Shelby gatherings, other car shows, and regular Sunday donut runs with fellow automobile aficionados. After all this time, he still really enjoys the car.
I suppose there was a time I kept the BMW just because. Just because it was already in the garage. Just because I didn’t need to sell it. Just because I’ve been damn lucky not to need to sell it.
Will I keep the BMW forever? I can’t say right now. There might come a time when I no longer enjoy driving it. Maybe I will need to sell it at some point. I’ve only got half the mileage on it that Richard has on his 59-year-old Shelby. I can say, however, please don’t bury me in it. It would be a shame for such a fun car to no longer be enjoyed when I am gone.
