The Chevrolet small block, regardless of its displacement, has been a cornerstone of the OHV V8 legacy. Fortunately, the engine’s global appeal and its appearance in over 50 years of OE production has benefitted performance enthusiasts due to the automotive aftermarket’s abundance of new speed-part technology, to the extent that it includes those parts that appear nostalgic but provide 21st century technology.
In this episode of the Summit Racing 70th Anniversary small block Chevrolet engine build, Evan and Mike install alloy cylinder heads and a roller-cam valvetrain on the fresh Summit Racing SPC short block. The cylinder heads are Trick Flow DHC 200s which mimic Chevrolet camel hump castings for the perfect vintage look, but with modern CNC ported runners. Follow along as the short block fills out into a long block on its way to the engine dyno!
There’s no denying the lasting appeal of Chevy’s Camaro, launched for 1967 as a direct competitor to the hugely successful Ford Mustang but soon creating a following all its own. Though the Camaro had always been available in practical, attainable trim levels, the model has also consistently exuded an attitude of sporting performance, and from the very beginning, the Camaro lineup has included variants dedicated to just that. Initially it was the Super Sport, with exclusive engine offerings and trim, continuing a legacy that had already been launched with the Impala and then bolstered by the Nova and Chevelle.
But before the first model year was over, Chevy introduced a special package for the Camaro to homologate certain equipment for use in the SCCA’s Trans-Am series; it would quickly come to be known by its production code: Z/28. In 1969, Chevy dealer Don Yenko convinced the right people in Detroit to allow Chevy’s Central Office Production Order system to be used to install 427 engines in Camaros (and Novas and Chevelles) on the assembly line when such things were supposed to be forbidden by GM’s own displacement restrictions.
The list of performance-tinged Camaros is long and is brought to mind regularly while perusing listings of classics being offered online. This time around, we happened upon a few Camaros of varied eras, each with different intentions, but all having a knack for getting us to look a little deeper into their details.
1969 Chevrolet Camaro
The popularity of muscle cars like the first-generation Chevy Camaro SS and Z/28, as well as the 427-powered COPO models, provided the inspiration for the creation of the many “clones” or “tributes” that have been built through the years from standard Camaros. But then there are some first-gen Camaros that have been upfitted with the select bits and pieces from other models simply to suit their owner’s tastes.
This 1969 Chevrolet Camaro is a good example of that. Though it wears Z/28 emblems and deck stripes, along with spoilers and 15-inch Rally wheels, its seller is quick to point out that this car was not born a Z. The presence of a TH350 automatic transmission is the most apparent clue that this Camaro isn’t trying to fool anyone (all ’69 Z/28s were four-speeds). In this case, the small-block under the hood is a 350, upgraded with aluminum heads. This car also has four-wheel disc brakes using what appears to be the style of GM calipers and rotors used on ’79-’81 Trans Ams with the WS6 option.
Camaros like this are an expression of enthusiasts’ desires to incorporate various preferred features—a hot rodding staple—and examples like this one can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, from a simple cruise night to a road trip to a bracket race at the local drag strip and beyond.
1999 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Back in 1996, the retro movement hadn’t yet taken hold in the auto industry, though it soon would. For fans of legacy models like the Camaro, nostalgia was already a powerful force, so when Chevrolet announced the return of the Camaro SS—not seen since the 1972 model year—it sparked real excitement.
Then, when the new variant emerged wearing retro-styled “SS” emblems that harked to the ‘60s and early ‘70s, that tug at the heartstrings intensified. Fortunately, the new SS wasn’t just about flash: The 1996 Camaro SS featured a composite hood with a functional ram-air scoop that helped boost the engine to 305 hp from 285. It also received revised suspension tuning, a “ducktail” rear spoiler, and 17-inch wheels (the Z28 still used 16s) that were styled just like the ones from the last Corvette ZR-1.
Adding to the muscle car vibe of the new SS was the fact that the special equipment was added by SLP, a well-known late-model performance specialist, and that the work was done at a dedicated facility, reminiscent of the way Hurst and other specialists had worked with Detroit automakers to upfit certain models during the heyday.
This example of the fourth-generation Chevrolet Camaro SS is from the later years, after the ’98 “facelift” and the change to the LS1 engine, which was rated at 320 hp in the SS that year. These were great performers in their day and were probably the lightest cars ever to receive an LS from the factory. What makes this one unusual and, in our view, even cooler, is its lack of T-tops, giving it a more performance-oriented vibe; plus, it’s a six-speed manual. Also neat is the little detail of the red-trimmed SS emblems, which were only used on black cars.
With only 18,000 miles and looking like it has lived a pampered life, it’s no surprise that the seller sounds like a serious enthusiast who went to lengths to preserve this car, adding only 18,000 miles from new and storing it in a garage on jackstands; he also maintained all of its original documentation. As a bonus, it even has the optional Torsen differential and Hurst shifter. This ’99 Camaro SS seems like a great find at a quite reasonable price.
2014 Chevrolet Camaro COPO
It was a big deal to Camaro fans, and really to anyone who enjoyed muscle cars, when Chevrolet reintroduced the Camaro for 2010 after having killed the storied model off after 2002. What made the return even sweeter was the effort on GM’s part to style the new car as a clear homage to the first-generation Camaro. Still, even the most hardcore Camaro geeks probably couldn’t have dreamed that Chevy would bring back the vaunted “COPO” term, yet it happened for 2013.
Originally, COPO stood for Central Office Production Order (or Production Option, depending on who you ask)—an internal method used mostly for ordering fleet vehicles. But, in 1969, it was employed to put 427 engines in Camaros (and Chevelles and Novas) on the assembly line that were not supposed to have them.
Decades later, COPO seemed like the perfect name for Chevy’s entry into the factory-built drag car wars, intended to do battle with Ford’s Cobra Jet Mustangs that debuted for 2008 and Dodge’s Challenger Drag Paks that followed in 2009, all of them aimed at NHRA Super Stock competition.
During the time that Chevy built the modern COPO Camaro factory drag cars, which spanned from 2013 to 2023, only 69 were produced each year, and getting the green light to order one usually required winning a lottery drawing. However, this 2014 Chevrolet Camaro COPO and in virtually new condition from what the seller shares. This one was built with the supercharged 350-cu.in. engine, one of the available offerings for that year. As a bonus, it also includes a new, crated LS7 427-cu.in. V-8, which was another COPO option for 2014; both engines are said to be serialized to this car. This car also has the Weld Racing-produced wheel package available for 2014 COPOs.
This list of equipment and details the seller lays out is lengthy and makes clear that this car is either a perfect collectible or an excellent nearly turn-key racer. Or maybe it’s both. In any case, this is a rare opportunity to acquire an example of a rare piece of Camaro racing history from a chapter that has closed.
As a lad I worked on the merry-go-round (assembly line) at a Ford assembly plant. It was hard work, but we were well paid and little skill was needed. However, there were an elite few artisans who worked among us as well. They were the ones who took out the sometimes not-so-little dents and dings in the bodywork that were inevitable with so many doing so much work in such a hurry. And they did it without disturbing the paint!
They had handfuls of special tools—some of which were of their own making—and they had techniques that were often closely guarded secrets. Because of their skills, these guys were paid well indeed. After witnessing them doing paintless dent removal, I always wanted to learn the skills; even more so in recent years because of the thin, high-carbon steel that car body panels are now made of that doesn’t respond well to traditional bodywork techniques.
Often, when working on cars built in the last 30 years, it is easier to replace panels than to fix them. But that seems like an extreme approach when all you are faced with is a minor dent or door ding. I decided I needed to try to learn a thing or two about paintless dent removal.
My thirst for this esoteric knowledge led me to a master restorer named Tom Horvath, known for his work with high-end Panteras and Pebble Beach winners. Tom knows all the tricks.
He also has a YouTube channel called Pro Paint & Body, named after a book we did together, and he has pioneered a line of top professional car care products called CSI (csiautoab.com). Tom was willing to get me started in the right direction, knowing that revealing his secrets was a little like an artist explaining how to paint a seascape—to make proper use of such information, you still have to pay your dues.
I got a 14-piece paintless dent removal set on the internet, plus a movable fluorescent light that is key to the process. I then began badgering and torturing old panels I found behind a nearby body shop in order to get the hang of it. Patience and careful observation are the keys to success when attempting this type of work.
The Right Tool
The assortment of tools in the set allows me to get to almost any dent in any car through openings that already exist in the car’s body. The ends of reinforcing doublers in the hood and trunk lid of your car usually allow access to almost any part of a panel if you look carefully. Also, there are often lightening holes in doublers that make access easy. Doors can usually be accessed through latch openings, but if not, holes can be drilled in the jamb area and then later plugged with rubber bungs.
Learning Curves
Don’t even consider poking around on your priceless Packard or Pontiac until you get the feel for these tools. Instead, pick up some discarded panels at a local salvage yard on which to practice. Learning exactly how hard to push up on a dent takes a little time. There is a very fine line between pressing metal too gently to affect it at all and pressing it so hard that you turn a dent into a bump.
In addition, different cars require different amounts of pressure. On a modern Japanese car, you can merely burnish out a door ding. But on a ’50s-era American car, considerably more pressure will need to be applied. Flat panels are more difficult to get right and are also more easily damaged by inexperienced people. Curved panels are stronger and a little less susceptible to inadvertent damage.
Tom sets up the adjustable lamp that helps find the dents.Work the lamp back and forth until you have it properly focused on the dent you want to fix.
Light Analysis
Touch is important, but the secret to paintless dent removal is learning how to read the reflected light. If it weren’t for light playing across the shiny surfaces of your car, you’d barely notice those annoying imperfections in its panels in the first place. That’s why an it’s important to have an adjustable work light, with tube-type bulbs, mounted on a stand. It will tell you exactly where the dent is, where the tip of your pick is, and how much effect you are having as you work.
We found a small ding (arrow) on the roof of this magnificent Pantera using the light.
A small dent will interrupt the smooth, linear reflection of the light tubes, whether along the upper or lower edge of the reflected light. Adjust the lights so the dent is along the lower edge of the reflection as viewed from where you will be working. Insert the tool that best suits the situation, carefully press its tip up so you can see its reflection, then drag it down through the upper gray area of the light and into the dent. Putting the tool exactly under the dent takes practice, so don’t get discouraged if your first efforts are frustrating.
Tom’s head bobs up and down so he can check his progress.
If you watch someone doing this job, you will notice how their head bobs up and down as if they are nodding constantly. That’s because they are trying to keep the dent on the center of the edge of the light reflection. They can easily see the dent because it will show a light spot opposite the light reflection line, and a dark spot intruding into the line on the other side. Raised areas show up as V-shaped nicks in the light line.
This is the proper stance for working out dents: one foot in front of the other with your back straight.
Stand with one foot placed behind the other to keep yourself steady, and to keep your back as straight as possible. Keep your eye on the dent while working on it. Adjust your light until a comfortable stance is possible.
Use the car’s reinforcing plates and doublers to leverage or hold the tool steady with one hand while you twist and tweak it to apply pressure to the other. When you are used to dragging the tip of the tool onto the center of the dent, you are ready to try pushing the dent out. As we said before, getting the exact pressure required to raise a low spot takes practice. Never try to do it with just one twist.
After about 50 tweaks of the tool, the dent is completely gone.
In fact, it can take 50 to 70 gentle twists of the tool to push out a small dent. The idea is to start at the center of the dent and press until the metal goes just the tiniest bit beyond where it will spring back to its original shape. Work the dent about 10 to 20 times in the center, then shift to the right of center and do it again. Now switch to the other side of center and keep going. The dent should start to appear shallower as you work.
Most modern paints are flexible enough that they will not crack when you bend them a little. Old lacquer is more rigid, so you will need to work gently on such finishes, and you may have to spot-paint any cracks you might create. Of course, the object is not to break the paint, and the best and most experienced technicians can work any finish without damaging it, but everybody makes mistakes now and then.
It is hard to see the ding (arrow) in this door unless you are where Tom is working.
The instructions so far have been for working on hoods, decklids and tops, but doors are different. Often as not, to repair a door you need to go down past the lower edge of the raised glass window. Never try to work on a door with the window down because you will likely break the glass if you do.
Use a Teflon wedge to press back the glass, then work the long, broad pick to press out the dent.
Begin door repairs by tapping in a Teflon wedge to press the glass against the inner window frame. When it is displaced, slide the long, flat tool that looks like an English broadsword into the slot. Position your light so you can see your dent, then begin massaging it out with the tip of the tool. You can also reach dents through the latch pocket in the door, and if there is no other way, you can resort to drilling a hole in the end of the door for access; a plastic plug can be inserted in the hole afterwards.
When using the light, you will notice that the top edge of the reflection is fuzzy, and the bottom edge is sharp. Many technicians start by working a dent along the upper, softer edge of the reflection and then finish by moving the light so that the last bit of the dent is in the sharp edge at the bottom. The yellow center between the bulbs can often be used to find ripples and unevenness in a panel.
Bumps and Grinds
You will most likely make a raised spot or two out of the dents you’re working on before you get the hang of this, so you will also need the plastic punches included with your dent tool kit. A gentle tap with a punch should be all that is required to take down an “outy” as it is referred to in the trade. Tom sometimes even gently presses down raised spots with picks that have masking tape wrapped around their ends, and he has been known to burnish down high spots with a piece of soft wood dowel too.
Very minor raised areas can be color-sanded out of existence using 1500-grit and then 2000-grit sandpaper, then buffing them out. But with modern finishes, if the original clearcoat becomes too thin, its UV protection will be compromised, and it will start to flake off like dead skin. I’m sure you’ve seen old cars with ugly, scaly rashes on their hoods and tops.
Though paintless dent removal requires a few special hand tools and a bit of time, consider the alternative. The only other way to remove dents is to grind or strip the paint off a damaged panel, tap out or fill the dent, then prime and paint, and that takes at least as much skill as paintless dent removal. So how do you restore your car’s finish to perfection without repainting? Practice.
On Thursday, September 4, 2025, a massive immigration enforcement raid involving Homeland Security Investigations (HSI), ICE, and other federal agencies took place at the Hyundai and LG Energy Solution EV battery plant that is under construction in Ellabell, Georgia. The operation resulted in the detention of 475 people, marking the largest single-site enforcement action in HSI history.
Today, @ATFAtlanta joined HSI, FBI, DEA, ICE, GSP and other agencies in a major immigration enforcement operation at the Hyundai mega site battery plant in Bryan County, GA, leading to the apprehension of ~450 unlawful aliens, emphasizing our commitment to community safety. #ATFpic.twitter.com/su6raLrLu6
The raid was part of a month’s long investigation into alleged unlawful employment practices and has sparked international scrutiny, prompted diplomatic intervention from South Korea, and exposed major tensions within Hyundai’s supply chain.
Following the raid, construction at the battery plant has halted. Both Hyundai and the South Korean government have stated that the interruption will cause project delays. The South Korean government also announced it will bring home over 300 of the detained workers. Meanwhile, Hyundai has launched an investigation into its subcontractors to ensure compliance with employment laws.
What happened during the raid?
Federal agents descended upon the construction site in Bryan County, which is touted as the largest economic development project in Georgia’s history. Eyewitnesses reported heavily armed agents shackling workers and loading them onto buses.
“The circumstances of the raid were just absolutely abusive, not only in their scope and just the sheer size of it, but the way that the folks at the Hyundai plant were treated by law enforcement,” said Meredyth Yoon of the Atlanta chapter of the civil rights organization Asian Americans Advancing Justice. “It is disturbing to see hundreds of people arrested, shackled at their waist and ankles, and loaded into buses and taken to an abusive detention center.”
Of the nearly 500 people arrested, most were South Korean nationals, though workers from other countries were also detained. Some were in the U.S. illegally, while others had entered legally but were found to be working unlawfully. It’s also important to note that the majority of the detained workers not direct employees of Hyundai or LG Energy Solution, but were working for subcontractors at the construction site.
Current reports state that none of the detained workers have been charged, and many reportedly hold valid U.S. work permits.
Diplomatic and corporate responses
The South Korean government expressed “concern and regret” over the incident and successfully negotiated the voluntary return of the detained Korean workers via a chartered flight. South Korean Foreign Minister Cho Hyun recently traveled to Washington to finalize steps for the return of the detained South Korean workers. Meanwhile, LG Energy Solution sent its chief human resources officer to Georgia to call for the release of detained workers and has suspended most U.S. business trips.
Hyundai stays firm in stating that none of its direct employees were among those detained. Hyundai’s North America chief manufacturing officer has taken governance of the entire Metaplant site and launched an investigation into its contractor and subcontractor practices.
Both Hyundai and LG Energy Solution have committed to investigating the practices of their subcontractors and reinforcing safety and legal compliance across their supply chains.
Underlying tensions and scrutiny
The raid caused further political friction by occurring amidst escalating trade tensions between the U.S. and South Korea, which has committed to massive U.S. investments. U.S. officials, including President Donald Trump, defended the enforcement action by stating that federal immigration authorities were “just doing their jobs”.
The raid has cast a harsh light on the complex layers of subcontractors that often fuel large-scale manufacturing projects.
The incident follows prior reports regarding alleged unauthorized labor and poor safety conditions at the plant, which had previously been investigated by a local TV station. One report from this summer highlights Hyundai being sued by U.S. Department of Labor for allegedly violating child labor laws.
The event has also caused tension in the local community of Ellabell, where the promise of new jobs has been overshadowed by the crackdown.
The path forward
As South Korea secures the return of its citizens, the incident leaves significant unanswered questions and challenges for both the companies and the federal government.
For Hyundai, the company’s internal investigation will be a critical step toward rebuilding trust and ensuring compliance. The stability of its multi-billion-dollar EV investment now rests on addressing the ethical and legal issues within its supply chain.
For federal authorities, though no charges have been filed against the companies, the ongoing investigation into unlawful employment practices is likely to continue. The incident highlights the collision between economic development incentives for foreign investment and strict immigration enforcement policies.
The diplomatic fallout raises concerns for international business, particularly for foreign manufacturers operating in the U.S., in this case, South Korea. Both nations will need to navigate this sensitive issue while continuing to cooperate on major economic projects.
We’ve known since late-2024 that a reimagined Honda Prelude would soon hit the streets, giving a new life to a nameplate that left the market back in 2001.
During its 23-year run, the Honda Prelude became known for its innovative technology, such as its advanced VTEC engines and the mechanical four-wheel steering (4WS) system in the third generation. Marketed as a fun-to-drive alternative to Honda’s practical sedan and hatchback models, the Prelude was performance-oriented yet still attainable. The 2026 Honda Prelude promises to continue the original nameplate’s legacy.
What We Know About The 2026 Honda Prelude So Far
It’s no surprise that the 2026 Prelude offers modern hybrid performance paired with sleek and sport styling that is inspired by its classic brethren. The Prelude shares its four-cylinder hybrid powertrain with the Civic hybrid model, and while it’s not as rev-happy as past Preludes, the setup offers 200 horsepower, which is more than a 2025 Mazda Miata and just 28 horsepower less than the newest Toyota GR86.
The 2026 Honda Prelude uses an electronic continuously variable transmission (eCVT), which includes a new Honda S+ Shift drive mode that simulates the feel of a traditional multi-gear transmission by using simulated gear shifts, rev-matched downshifts, and paddle shifters for enhanced driver engagement. The eCVT system, similar to units found in the Civic and Accord, allows the engine to operate at its most efficient RPMs by acting like a generator, while the electric motor provides instant torque for smooth, responsive acceleration.
Aside from the Sport mode, other selectable driving modes include Comfort, GT, and Individual – a mode that allows drivers to customize the car’s performance characteristics, including suspension damping, steering response, and powertrain, to suit different driving environments.
Fun-To-Drive and Good On Fuel
While official EPA fuel economy numbers for the new Prelude are not yet released, industry sources and Honda’s information suggest an estimated 40-plus miles-per-gallon combined, potentially higher, given its hybrid powertrain and efficiency-focused design. This is an impressive number for any sports car. Granted, Honda has not revealed the Prelude’s curb weight, either, but we do know that the hybrid Honda Civic weighs 3,208 pounds in Sport form and 3,252 pounds as a Sport Touring Hybrid.
Under the smooth, sharp-nosed silhouette, the 2026 Honda Prelude utilizes Civic Type R chassis components, including the dual-axis strut front suspension, wide front and rear tracks and large brakes originally designed for the Type R. The dual-axis design separates the steering knuckles from the dampers for increased steering axis flexibility and better handling.
Honda says the 2026 Prelude is tuned for a “sporty yet comfortable grand touring experience” and promises that the car will offer “precise steering, responsive handling and fun-to-drive feel to deliver an engaging grand touring experience, while remaining comfortable for everyday driving.”
“The new sports coupe will advance the ‘joy of driving’ for a new generation of buyers, as the first model to pair the award-winning Honda two-motor hybrid-electric powertrain with the high-performance chassis hardware of the iconic Civic Type R,” Honda said.
A Driver-Focused Interior
The interior is designed with an immersive, grand touring driving experience in mind. The car’s futuristic yet functional interior styling features thin A-pillars, a driver-focused cockpit with a clean design, and 2+2 seating with ultra-premium front sports seats. The front seats feature asymmetrical bolstering, meaning the driver’s seat is more supportive while the passenger’s is designed for optimum comfort. Its flat-bottomed, leather-wrapped steering wheel is equipped with alloy paddle shifters and a push-button gear selector.
The upscale synthetic leather-wrapped dash and console includes a 10.2-inch digital instrument panel and a nine-inch HD color touchscreen that hosts Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. All Preludes come with Bose Centerpoint premium sound with eight speakers.
Pricing and Availability
The compact, two-door sports coupe will appeal to driving enthusiasts who feel lost in a crossover and SUV dominated market. Honda has not yet announced the official US price for the 2026 Prelude, but according to Car and Driver, it is expected to start around $42,000. Other sources are hopeful, stating prices could start in at under $40,000.
The new Prelude will be a single, fully-loaded trim, with five exterior color choices: Boost Blue Pearl, Crystal Black Pearl, Meteorite Gray Metallic, Rally Red, and the new Winter Frost Pearl. The new Winter Frost Pearl can be optioned with a black or body-color roof for a two-tone effect. It is expected to go on sale later this year through the fall of 2026.
We will update this article with further details as more information is released.
I’ll admit that I was afraid of being judged when I approached the woman from the town DPW to ask about the disposal of waste motor oil. After all, the apartment complex where we’d been living for the past three years wouldn’t allow me to put a wrench on my car for any reason, including the replacement of its oil and filter. What kind of reception would I get in our new town?
“Oh, we love people who change their own oil!” She assured me. She explained that the DPW garage is licensed to burn used motor oil in its heating system, which meant that every quart I threw away was a quart of heating oil the town didn’t have to buy. Makes sense—even if I had been hoping that she’d tell me that what the DPW admired was my gritty, do-it-yourself approach to automotive maintenance.
(By the way, if you’re wondering how many car owners do change their own oil, the answer, according to a 2024 MarketWatch survey I recently read, is 44 percent. Among baby boomers like me, it’s just 17 percent, with Gen Z leading the way at 55 percent.)
This getting-to-know-the-neighbors thing is a delicate dance, and I wanted to make sure that I got off on the right foot with my first oil change at our new house. It really wouldn’t do to have the neighborhood kids riding their bikes through puddles of dirty oil in the street or learning new and colorful expressions from me as one thing or another went sideways. So, here’s how I approached the whole operation.
The first step was to go to the nearest auto parts supplier, which happens to be an O’Reilly, to buy a 5-quart jug of oil and an oil filter for my 1992 Mazda Miata. I’d kept all my tools when we moved from our old house into our apartment three years earlier, but I’d gotten rid of my old funnels and drain pan, and so I had to buy replacements for those, too. David, the O’Reilly counter worker, helped me choose among the half-dozen or so brands of filter, and I grabbed a jug of Castrol, figuring that its British heritage made it a good choice for a Miata, the most British of Japanese roadsters.
Back home, I got the car up on the ramps and dug out the owner’s manual to read the oil-change instructions. This was my first time changing the oil in this car, which I’d bought while we were living at the apartment, and I wanted to make sure I didn’t make some boneheaded move, like draining the gearbox instead of the sump.
The underside of the Miata turned out to be an easy place to work. I dragged out a big piece of cardboard to prevent spills from getting too far, removed the oil filler cap, and got my drain pan in place before addressing the 19-mm drain plug, which came loose without a fight. As always, hot, dirty oil streamed down my arm and inside my sleeve as I fumbled with the plug.
This, naturally, was when I remembered that I’d left my roll of paper towels inside the garage. I retrieved them while doing my best to avoid contaminating my workspace with old oil, and gave the drain plug a cleaning.
I’d never laid eyes on the oil filter before, and reading the manual, I now understood why: It’s buried underneath the intake manifold on the passenger side, near the starter motor. The manual said it could be removed from above or below. I went at it from above, working my hand around various components to get to the filter. Fortunately, the technician at the last drive-through oil change place I’d used hadn’t overtightened it, and I was able to unscrew it without resorting to tools. I did the future me a favor by hand-tightening the new filter.
One trick I’d learned a while back was to set the drain plug on the cap of the oil jug, to reduce the chances of pouring all that nice, fresh oil through the engine and directly onto the driveway. I snugged the drain plug, broke out my new funnel, and poured 3.6 quarts of fresh Castrol into the engine. I don’t know why, but I find this step one of the most satisfying bits of automotive maintenance. A check of the dipstick, a test-drive around the neighborhood, and the job was done for another 3,000 miles.
Ideally, the used oil goes into the empty jug, but it couldn’t in this case, because there was still more than a quart of the new 10W-30 in there. I’ll have to find some other suitable container for that and then pour the contents of the drain pan into the jug, using the same funnel-and-cardboard approach that worked so well in the driveway.
Then, I’ll drop off my container of used oil at the town garage. I don’t expect the DPW workers to applaud, but I can’t say that it wouldn’t be a nice gesture.
When checking the main bearing clearance on any engine that mounts the oil pump to the Number 5 main cap like a small- or big-block Chevy, you should always torque the main cap bolts first then torque the oil pump to the main cap before checking the actual clearance. Adding the oil pump will distort the cap slightly which will alter the clearance. We’ve seen this torque change the clearance 0.0005-inch or more.
A shortcut to help with this process is to modify an old oil pump using only the mounting boss as shown in the photo. This abbreviated part of the pump will simulate the entire pump installed which allows the engine builder to ensure the main bearing clearance is accurate.
The Eagle Field military base’s initial 1945 closure must’ve been a happy occasion for all concerned. Not so the historic facility’s second sudden shutdown, 80 years later, as a twice-yearly drag strip that faithfully honored the property’s WWII legacy with vintage warbirds flown fast and low over abandoned military structures and vehicles. Vintage racers accepted minimal traction across an eighth-mile stretch of land first prepared for training combat pilots. Fans lining the pit side cheerfully endured sudden gusts of wind and dust. Alas, a new landlord reportedly presented new terms that abruptly ended a successful experiment by bracket-racer-turned-promoter Rocky Phillips that spanned 15 seasons. Fortunately for all parties, the nearby city of Mendota’s active airport stepped up to host Eagle Field’s traditional spring and fall events for the near future, at least (info: eaglefielddrags.com).
Photographer: Dave Wallace
Date: May 2010
Location: Eagle Field Airport Drags; Firebaugh, California
Mercedes-Benz confirmed the return of its G-Class Cabriolet, prompted by popular demand from fans and enthusiasts who have been calling for its return. The G-Wagen, a four-wheel-drive luxury SUV recognized for its iconic design, exceptional build quality, and off-road capability derived from military origins, just became even more unique with the reintroduction of the open-top model.
A Legacy Reborn: What We Know About the New G-Wagen Convertible
The G-Class has been a symbol of uncompromising off-road capability and rugged luxury for decades, and the new Cabriolet will be no different. While Mercedes-Benz has kept specific details under wraps, we’ve gathered all the information we can until further notice.
The Cabriolet’s return leverages the G-Class’s iconic heritage, positioning the convertible as a new, bona fide member of the global G-Class lineup, not just a limited-edition indulgence. The Cabriolet will join the recently introduced all-electric G-Class EV and the updated 2025 G-Wagen, further expanding the iconic lineup.
Unlike the previous limited-run G-Wagen convertibles, the new Cabriolet is expected to be sold in nearly every market where the standard SUV is available, including the United States. This marks the first time U.S. customers can purchase an open-top G directly from a Mercedes-Benz showroom.
A New Chapter for the G-Class
The G-Class has always blended an unmistakable boxy silhouette with immense off-road capability and on-road presence. The return of the Cabriolet honors this heritage while embracing modern engineering. The Cabriolet is expected to share the same rugged ladder-frame construction, advanced 4MATIC system, and off-road capability that makes the G-class SUV legendary. It’s anticipated to offer the same powertrains and driving dynamics as the standard G-Class, making it possible to tackle off-road terrain or cruise the highways in top-down fashion.
While no G-Class is “cheap,” the new Cabriolet is expected to be more accessible than the previous hyper-exclusive, limited-run models like the $550,000 Mercedes-Maybach G650 Landaulet. Market observers speculate a starting price likely to be north of $200,000.
While the U.S. market wasn’t privy to the factory-built G-Wagen convertibles for many years, the two-door open-tops have been a staple in other parts of the world. The revival is an exciting opportunity for American enthusiasts to finally experience this iconic vehicle. Stay tuned for updates on specs, pricing, and the official release date.
For some, riding a motorcycle without a helmet is an act of defying regulations and asserting their individual freedom. For others, riding helmet-free it enhances the experience by offering a stronger sense of freedom, sensory engagement, and connection with the road. However, this choice comes with significant risks and potential legal consequences in many places. That’s why BMW is on the road to resolving helmetless restrictions by adding a roll cage and harness to a CE04, which is said to keep occupants protected in the event of a crash.
BMW’s new concept is called the Vision CE, and it’s not the first of its kind. You may remember the BMW C1, a scooter that was equipped with a roof, windshield, and seat belts in the early 2000s. The C1 had an aluminum spaceframe that formed a protective safety cell around the rider. While some jurisdictions still required the use of helmets, authorities such as the German Federal Ministry of Transport and TÜV approved the C1 for helmet-free use due to its safety features.
Even so, the potential arrival of a roll cage-equipped BMW Vision CE electric scooter still raises safety concerns.
BMW C1. Photo provided by Chuck Schultz – Wikimedia.BMW Vision CE electric scooter concept
Freedom Of The Open Road Comes With Risks
BMW says the goal of the Vision CE is to “eliminate the need for a helmet as well as protective clothing,” but offers no images of real people sitting on the scooter. At first glance, we still have concerns about the possibility of arms and hands ending up outside of the “safe space” – look at how the handles are positioned outside of the roll cage. Plus, what about the rider’s legs and feet?
Statistics from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) confirm that legs and feet are the most commonly injured body parts in non-fatal motorcycle accidents, accounting for around 30% of all such injuries, often from direct impact with another vehicle or road surface. The severity of these injuries, which can include fractures, road rash, crushing injuries, and nerve damage, can result in long-term disability.
Interestingly enough, it has been proven that, with the addition of a roll cage, there’s a greater risk of your skull striking a solid, fixed object, which can cause severe brain injury. A helmet provides a crucial layer of protection against this type of impact.
BMW also claims the Vision CE can “completely balance itself when stationary,” which can prevent low-speed tip overs that are more common with new riders, the exact audience that BMW hopes to target with its new concept. However, the feature still leaves room for slip-ups, such as a rider skidding over slick road paint in the rain. The initial instinct of a beginner rider is to stick their leg out to regain stability, but the images from the press release don’t show solutions for such a risk.
While the idea to offer a product that allows riders to hit the road helmet and motorcycle armor free could find its own niche in the market, the Vision CE appears to pose similar risks when compared any other scooter or motorcycle. And realistically, will a rider with a helmet-free preference choose a bike with an unsightly roll bar? We suspect not. What do you think? Sound off in the comments below.
