America’s Sports Car‘s popularity has never been compromised, considering how many show up on AutoHunter. Below, we have three from our auction website plus one from ClassicCars.com, our classified ad website. Can you identify each from the images provided?
Enter your answers in the Comments section below the images. If you need a hint, simply click on a picture to be taken to the actual auction or ad.
When the Mercedes-Benz 280SE 4.5 was tested by Road & Track magazine in 1971, it was called the best European luxury sedan in the world. Based on the W108 chassis, the 280SE came equipped with a number of inline-6 engines over the years, including a 3.5-liter V8 and the mighty 6.3-liter V8. For the model year 1972, Mercedes added what many felt was the perfect combination—lengthening the stroke of the 3.5-liter to increase displacement to 4.5 liters. This change was exactly what prospective owners were hoping for. Mercedes routinely received top marks in magazine road tests for this one-year-only car and engine combination.
About 25 years ago, I had the privilege of owning one of these cars, which I used as my daily driver while working in northern Virginia. I drove it for an entire year, even in the snow and rain, and the car delivered on that Road & Track statement each time.
While not the full-bore classic sports sedan the legendary 6.3 is, the 280SE 4.5 is an extremely well-balanced European luxury sedan that features some of the best build quality ever (even better than the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow) and is more than capable of keeping up with modern traffic. It is also the bargain of the V8-powered W108/109 Series S-Class cars. Driving a 280SE 4.5 is somehow engaging and serene at the same time, making it a great car to use if you need to cover great distances with three passengers aboard.
The exterior of this 280SE is painted in the correct Mercedes color of Horizon Blue. Many find this color polarizing, but it somehow lightens the look of the 280SE design, making it sportier yet still elegant. The seller says this car underwent a complete restoration sometime in its past. Looking at the exterior and chassis photos, this car does seem to be a pretty clean example, though you can see a slight rust issue on the rear of the right front fender. What is interesting is that my personal 280SE had a small rust spot in the exact same location, which I was able to have repaired properly for not a lot of money. Keep both the fender and the low cost to fix in mind when bidding, as Horizon Blue is a pretty easy color to match.
The interior is finished in Dark Blue MB-Tex and appears to be in great shape. I honestly prefer MB-Tex over leather because it has its own unique properties, including better cooling through the vented seat panels. Virtually indestructible, MB-Tex has to be the very highest-quality synthetic seat material ever made and even feels great to the touch.
The view behind the wheel of this 280SE is vintage German awesomeness. The main instrument cluster features a 160-mph speedometer on the right and a multi-gauge on the left, with auxiliary gauges for the oil pressure, temperature, and fuel, as well as a clock.
Under the hood is the fuel-injected Mercedes SOHC 4.5-liter M117 V8, which is paired with a three-speed automatic transmission. When new, this engine produced 230hp and 279 lb-ft of torque, giving it ample power to deal with modern traffic both in town and on the interstate. Everything looks reasonably tidy under the hood; I did not see anything that caused me to raise red flags.
If you have been searching for a car that clearly demonstrates some of the best engineering and build quality Mercedes-Benz has ever delivered (and, with a little effort attending to a few items that can easily make a good car better), then you should probably consider placing a bid or two on this 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280SE 4.5 sedan. Don’t wait too long, though, as the auction for this car ends on Thursday, September 18, 2025, at 12:30 p.m. (PDT).
There’s no denying the lasting appeal of Chevy’s Camaro, launched for 1967 as a direct competitor to the hugely successful Ford Mustang but soon creating a following all its own. Though the Camaro had always been available in practical, attainable trim levels, the model has also consistently exuded an attitude of sporting performance, and from the very beginning, the Camaro lineup has included variants dedicated to just that. Initially it was the Super Sport, with exclusive engine offerings and trim, continuing a legacy that had already been launched with the Impala and then bolstered by the Nova and Chevelle.
But before the first model year was over, Chevy introduced a special package for the Camaro to homologate certain equipment for use in the SCCA’s Trans-Am series; it would quickly come to be known by its production code: Z/28. In 1969, Chevy dealer Don Yenko convinced the right people in Detroit to allow Chevy’s Central Office Production Order system to be used to install 427 engines in Camaros (and Novas and Chevelles) on the assembly line when such things were supposed to be forbidden by GM’s own displacement restrictions.
The list of performance-tinged Camaros is long and is brought to mind regularly while perusing listings of classics being offered online. This time around, we happened upon a few Camaros of varied eras, each with different intentions, but all having a knack for getting us to look a little deeper into their details.
1969 Chevrolet Camaro
The popularity of muscle cars like the first-generation Chevy Camaro SS and Z/28, as well as the 427-powered COPO models, provided the inspiration for the creation of the many “clones” or “tributes” that have been built through the years from standard Camaros. But then there are some first-gen Camaros that have been upfitted with the select bits and pieces from other models simply to suit their owner’s tastes.
This 1969 Chevrolet Camaro is a good example of that. Though it wears Z/28 emblems and deck stripes, along with spoilers and 15-inch Rally wheels, its seller is quick to point out that this car was not born a Z. The presence of a TH350 automatic transmission is the most apparent clue that this Camaro isn’t trying to fool anyone (all ’69 Z/28s were four-speeds). In this case, the small-block under the hood is a 350, upgraded with aluminum heads. This car also has four-wheel disc brakes using what appears to be the style of GM calipers and rotors used on ’79-’81 Trans Ams with the WS6 option.
Camaros like this are an expression of enthusiasts’ desires to incorporate various preferred features—a hot rodding staple—and examples like this one can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, from a simple cruise night to a road trip to a bracket race at the local drag strip and beyond.
1999 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Back in 1996, the retro movement hadn’t yet taken hold in the auto industry, though it soon would. For fans of legacy models like the Camaro, nostalgia was already a powerful force, so when Chevrolet announced the return of the Camaro SS—not seen since the 1972 model year—it sparked real excitement.
Then, when the new variant emerged wearing retro-styled “SS” emblems that harked to the ‘60s and early ‘70s, that tug at the heartstrings intensified. Fortunately, the new SS wasn’t just about flash: The 1996 Camaro SS featured a composite hood with a functional ram-air scoop that helped boost the engine to 305 hp from 285. It also received revised suspension tuning, a “ducktail” rear spoiler, and 17-inch wheels (the Z28 still used 16s) that were styled just like the ones from the last Corvette ZR-1.
Adding to the muscle car vibe of the new SS was the fact that the special equipment was added by SLP, a well-known late-model performance specialist, and that the work was done at a dedicated facility, reminiscent of the way Hurst and other specialists had worked with Detroit automakers to upfit certain models during the heyday.
This example of the fourth-generation Chevrolet Camaro SS is from the later years, after the ’98 “facelift” and the change to the LS1 engine, which was rated at 320 hp in the SS that year. These were great performers in their day and were probably the lightest cars ever to receive an LS from the factory. What makes this one unusual and, in our view, even cooler, is its lack of T-tops, giving it a more performance-oriented vibe; plus, it’s a six-speed manual. Also neat is the little detail of the red-trimmed SS emblems, which were only used on black cars.
With only 18,000 miles and looking like it has lived a pampered life, it’s no surprise that the seller sounds like a serious enthusiast who went to lengths to preserve this car, adding only 18,000 miles from new and storing it in a garage on jackstands; he also maintained all of its original documentation. As a bonus, it even has the optional Torsen differential and Hurst shifter. This ’99 Camaro SS seems like a great find at a quite reasonable price.
2014 Chevrolet Camaro COPO
It was a big deal to Camaro fans, and really to anyone who enjoyed muscle cars, when Chevrolet reintroduced the Camaro for 2010 after having killed the storied model off after 2002. What made the return even sweeter was the effort on GM’s part to style the new car as a clear homage to the first-generation Camaro. Still, even the most hardcore Camaro geeks probably couldn’t have dreamed that Chevy would bring back the vaunted “COPO” term, yet it happened for 2013.
Originally, COPO stood for Central Office Production Order (or Production Option, depending on who you ask)—an internal method used mostly for ordering fleet vehicles. But, in 1969, it was employed to put 427 engines in Camaros (and Chevelles and Novas) on the assembly line that were not supposed to have them.
Decades later, COPO seemed like the perfect name for Chevy’s entry into the factory-built drag car wars, intended to do battle with Ford’s Cobra Jet Mustangs that debuted for 2008 and Dodge’s Challenger Drag Paks that followed in 2009, all of them aimed at NHRA Super Stock competition.
During the time that Chevy built the modern COPO Camaro factory drag cars, which spanned from 2013 to 2023, only 69 were produced each year, and getting the green light to order one usually required winning a lottery drawing. However, this 2014 Chevrolet Camaro COPO and in virtually new condition from what the seller shares. This one was built with the supercharged 350-cu.in. engine, one of the available offerings for that year. As a bonus, it also includes a new, crated LS7 427-cu.in. V-8, which was another COPO option for 2014; both engines are said to be serialized to this car. This car also has the Weld Racing-produced wheel package available for 2014 COPOs.
This list of equipment and details the seller lays out is lengthy and makes clear that this car is either a perfect collectible or an excellent nearly turn-key racer. Or maybe it’s both. In any case, this is a rare opportunity to acquire an example of a rare piece of Camaro racing history from a chapter that has closed.
As a lad I worked on the merry-go-round (assembly line) at a Ford assembly plant. It was hard work, but we were well paid and little skill was needed. However, there were an elite few artisans who worked among us as well. They were the ones who took out the sometimes not-so-little dents and dings in the bodywork that were inevitable with so many doing so much work in such a hurry. And they did it without disturbing the paint!
They had handfuls of special tools—some of which were of their own making—and they had techniques that were often closely guarded secrets. Because of their skills, these guys were paid well indeed. After witnessing them doing paintless dent removal, I always wanted to learn the skills; even more so in recent years because of the thin, high-carbon steel that car body panels are now made of that doesn’t respond well to traditional bodywork techniques.
Often, when working on cars built in the last 30 years, it is easier to replace panels than to fix them. But that seems like an extreme approach when all you are faced with is a minor dent or door ding. I decided I needed to try to learn a thing or two about paintless dent removal.
My thirst for this esoteric knowledge led me to a master restorer named Tom Horvath, known for his work with high-end Panteras and Pebble Beach winners. Tom knows all the tricks.
He also has a YouTube channel called Pro Paint & Body, named after a book we did together, and he has pioneered a line of top professional car care products called CSI (csiautoab.com). Tom was willing to get me started in the right direction, knowing that revealing his secrets was a little like an artist explaining how to paint a seascape—to make proper use of such information, you still have to pay your dues.
I got a 14-piece paintless dent removal set on the internet, plus a movable fluorescent light that is key to the process. I then began badgering and torturing old panels I found behind a nearby body shop in order to get the hang of it. Patience and careful observation are the keys to success when attempting this type of work.
The Right Tool
The assortment of tools in the set allows me to get to almost any dent in any car through openings that already exist in the car’s body. The ends of reinforcing doublers in the hood and trunk lid of your car usually allow access to almost any part of a panel if you look carefully. Also, there are often lightening holes in doublers that make access easy. Doors can usually be accessed through latch openings, but if not, holes can be drilled in the jamb area and then later plugged with rubber bungs.
Learning Curves
Don’t even consider poking around on your priceless Packard or Pontiac until you get the feel for these tools. Instead, pick up some discarded panels at a local salvage yard on which to practice. Learning exactly how hard to push up on a dent takes a little time. There is a very fine line between pressing metal too gently to affect it at all and pressing it so hard that you turn a dent into a bump.
In addition, different cars require different amounts of pressure. On a modern Japanese car, you can merely burnish out a door ding. But on a ’50s-era American car, considerably more pressure will need to be applied. Flat panels are more difficult to get right and are also more easily damaged by inexperienced people. Curved panels are stronger and a little less susceptible to inadvertent damage.
Tom sets up the adjustable lamp that helps find the dents.Work the lamp back and forth until you have it properly focused on the dent you want to fix.
Light Analysis
Touch is important, but the secret to paintless dent removal is learning how to read the reflected light. If it weren’t for light playing across the shiny surfaces of your car, you’d barely notice those annoying imperfections in its panels in the first place. That’s why an it’s important to have an adjustable work light, with tube-type bulbs, mounted on a stand. It will tell you exactly where the dent is, where the tip of your pick is, and how much effect you are having as you work.
We found a small ding (arrow) on the roof of this magnificent Pantera using the light.
A small dent will interrupt the smooth, linear reflection of the light tubes, whether along the upper or lower edge of the reflected light. Adjust the lights so the dent is along the lower edge of the reflection as viewed from where you will be working. Insert the tool that best suits the situation, carefully press its tip up so you can see its reflection, then drag it down through the upper gray area of the light and into the dent. Putting the tool exactly under the dent takes practice, so don’t get discouraged if your first efforts are frustrating.
Tom’s head bobs up and down so he can check his progress.
If you watch someone doing this job, you will notice how their head bobs up and down as if they are nodding constantly. That’s because they are trying to keep the dent on the center of the edge of the light reflection. They can easily see the dent because it will show a light spot opposite the light reflection line, and a dark spot intruding into the line on the other side. Raised areas show up as V-shaped nicks in the light line.
This is the proper stance for working out dents: one foot in front of the other with your back straight.
Stand with one foot placed behind the other to keep yourself steady, and to keep your back as straight as possible. Keep your eye on the dent while working on it. Adjust your light until a comfortable stance is possible.
Use the car’s reinforcing plates and doublers to leverage or hold the tool steady with one hand while you twist and tweak it to apply pressure to the other. When you are used to dragging the tip of the tool onto the center of the dent, you are ready to try pushing the dent out. As we said before, getting the exact pressure required to raise a low spot takes practice. Never try to do it with just one twist.
After about 50 tweaks of the tool, the dent is completely gone.
In fact, it can take 50 to 70 gentle twists of the tool to push out a small dent. The idea is to start at the center of the dent and press until the metal goes just the tiniest bit beyond where it will spring back to its original shape. Work the dent about 10 to 20 times in the center, then shift to the right of center and do it again. Now switch to the other side of center and keep going. The dent should start to appear shallower as you work.
Most modern paints are flexible enough that they will not crack when you bend them a little. Old lacquer is more rigid, so you will need to work gently on such finishes, and you may have to spot-paint any cracks you might create. Of course, the object is not to break the paint, and the best and most experienced technicians can work any finish without damaging it, but everybody makes mistakes now and then.
It is hard to see the ding (arrow) in this door unless you are where Tom is working.
The instructions so far have been for working on hoods, decklids and tops, but doors are different. Often as not, to repair a door you need to go down past the lower edge of the raised glass window. Never try to work on a door with the window down because you will likely break the glass if you do.
Use a Teflon wedge to press back the glass, then work the long, broad pick to press out the dent.
Begin door repairs by tapping in a Teflon wedge to press the glass against the inner window frame. When it is displaced, slide the long, flat tool that looks like an English broadsword into the slot. Position your light so you can see your dent, then begin massaging it out with the tip of the tool. You can also reach dents through the latch pocket in the door, and if there is no other way, you can resort to drilling a hole in the end of the door for access; a plastic plug can be inserted in the hole afterwards.
When using the light, you will notice that the top edge of the reflection is fuzzy, and the bottom edge is sharp. Many technicians start by working a dent along the upper, softer edge of the reflection and then finish by moving the light so that the last bit of the dent is in the sharp edge at the bottom. The yellow center between the bulbs can often be used to find ripples and unevenness in a panel.
Bumps and Grinds
You will most likely make a raised spot or two out of the dents you’re working on before you get the hang of this, so you will also need the plastic punches included with your dent tool kit. A gentle tap with a punch should be all that is required to take down an “outy” as it is referred to in the trade. Tom sometimes even gently presses down raised spots with picks that have masking tape wrapped around their ends, and he has been known to burnish down high spots with a piece of soft wood dowel too.
Very minor raised areas can be color-sanded out of existence using 1500-grit and then 2000-grit sandpaper, then buffing them out. But with modern finishes, if the original clearcoat becomes too thin, its UV protection will be compromised, and it will start to flake off like dead skin. I’m sure you’ve seen old cars with ugly, scaly rashes on their hoods and tops.
Though paintless dent removal requires a few special hand tools and a bit of time, consider the alternative. The only other way to remove dents is to grind or strip the paint off a damaged panel, tap out or fill the dent, then prime and paint, and that takes at least as much skill as paintless dent removal. So how do you restore your car’s finish to perfection without repainting? Practice.
This 1964 Chevrolet Corvair 95 Rampside pickup was modified under prior ownership with a mid-mounted 350ci V8 linked to a TH350 three-speed automatic transmission and a Positraction rear end. Functional exhaust stacks, West Coast mirrors, cab lights, a cylindrical fuel tank, and 14” alloy wheels have been added, and the live rear axle is located by a four-bar setup with adjustable coilovers. Inside, beige bucket seats are joined by purple harnesses, a B&M floor shifter, and aftermarket gauges. This custom Corvair is now offered at no reserve with a clean Michigan title in the seller’s name.
The body wears worn green paint, and dual exhaust stacks have been added along with West Coast mirrors, clearance lights, and a folding rear step. The tailgate has been removed, and the side ramp has been replaced with street signs. Dents, rust holes, and painted accents around the truck can be viewed in the gallery.
Portions of the cargo floor were cut out to accommodate a mid-mounted 350ci V8, which is equipped with a four-barrel carburetor, an Edelbrock intake manifold, polished valve covers, and wrapped long-tube headers. The side-mounted aluminum radiator and transmission cooler are each cooled by an electric fan.
Alloy 14” wheels wear faux three-eared spinners. The live rear axle is supported by a four-bar setup with Panhard rod and QA1 adjustable coilovers, and braking is handled by drums at each corner.
Bucket seats trimmed in beige cloth have been installed along with purple harnesses, a B&M floor shifter, and a black floor covering. A crossbar has been added to the rear bulkhead, and various decals have been applied throughout the interior.
An 8-ball spinner knob has been added to the steering wheel, which sits ahead of a column-mounted Equus tachometer and a sweeping 100-mph speedometer. An array of supplementary gauges have been added across the dashboard. The five-digit odometer shows 36k miles, approximately 100 of which have been added under current ownership.
A cylindrical fuel tank is mounted at the back of the bed.
Power is sent to the rear wheels through a TH350 three-speed automatic transmission and a 10-bolt rear end with a Positraction limited-slip differential. Rust is visible on underbody components, which can be viewed in the gallery.
This ’32 Ford roadster was built in 2003 by the seller’s father using a Speedway Motors Basic Lowboy frame kit. The fiberglass body was painted dark red in 2014 and features shaved door handles and trunk along with a tan convertible top from Rod Tops. Power is provided by a 350ci Chevrolet V8 sourced from a 1978 Camaro and rebuilt in 2003 with an Isky 264/270 Mega camshaft, stainless-steel valves, and a tri-power induction setup, and it is linked to a TH350 three-speed automatic transmission and a 10-bolt rear end. Additional equipment includes chrome staggered-diameter wheels, a drilled Super Bell drop axle, air-ride rear suspension, power-assisted front disc brakes, air conditioning, and a Dakota Digital gauge cluster. This ’32 roadster is now offered with a dyno sheet, records, instructional diagrams, a car cover, and an Arkansas title listing the car as a 1932 Ford.
The fiberglass bodywork was painted dark red in 2014. Features include shaved door handles and trunk lid, a fold-up removable tan convertible top from Rod Tops, guide-style headlights, and dual side mirror.
The build utilized a Speedway Motors Basic Lowboy frame kit. A forged and drilled Super Bell front axle with transverse leaf spring and hairpin radius rods, rack-and-pinion steering, and a rear four-link suspension with Air Ride Technologies air springs were used. Chrome 14″ front and 15″ rear wheels are mounted with Coker tires measuring 195/75R14 and 235/75R15, respectively. Braking is handled by power-assisted front discs and rear drums.
The cabin features a bench seat upholstered in brown vinyl with color-coordinated side panels and seatbelts. A Vintage Air climate-control system was added along with a Lokar shifter. The seller notes the right-hand hinge on the radio grille does not function correctly.
A 1940 Ford-style dashboard houses a Dakota Digital gauge cluster, and an Ididit steering column, a banjo wheel, an E-Z wiring harness, and touch-start ignition operated by a key fob are additional features. The seller’s family have driven all of the 1.350 miles indicated, which represents the distance driven on the build. A Painless Performance latching solenoid battery disconnect system is installed, with the switch located underneath the dashboard on the left side.
The 350ci Chevrolet V8 was sourced from a 1978 Camaro and rebuilt in April 2003 by RPM Automotive Services with an Isky 264/270 Mega camshaft, 2.02″ stainless intake valves, and 1.6″ stainless exhaust valves. Three two-barrel carburetors are mounted on an Edelbrock intake manifold, and the finned valve covers are also from Edelbrock. Headers are linked to a dual exhaust system. A July 2014 dynamometer report is provided in the gallery.
TheTH350 three-speed automatic transmission was rebuilt by Healdsburg Transmission in February 2003, and the 10-bolt rear end was also rebuilt.
The car is titled as a 1932 Ford using VIN CA967747. The title carries an “OD Exempt” remark.
This 1949 Cadillac Series 62 Club Coupe was named Street Rod of the Year in 2017 by Street Rodder magazine along with the Goodguys Custom of the Year in 2018. The car was purchased new by actor Adolphe Menjou, it was acquired by the seller in 2014, and a multi-year custom build was completed by Chris Carlson Hot Rods of Mulvane, Kansas, in 2017. Power is provided by an LS3 crate V8 topped with a Jim Inglese eight-stack fuel injection setup, and the drivetrain is completed with a four-speed automatic and a Strange rear axle. The car rides on an Accu-Air adjustable suspension and billet 18″ Sabre-style wheels, while the customized bodywork is finished in Pearl Metallic Red and mounted to a Roadster Shop Fast Track chassis with removable belly pans. Inside the custom interior, Saddle and Tobacco Italian leather upholstery is joined by Quilted Maple wood trim, a full-length center console, Vintage Air climate control, and heated and ventilated front buckets in addition to a Bluetooth Kenwood touchscreen receiver with a rearview camera, GPS, and satellite radio capability. Acquired by the seller in 2014, this “WickCad” Series 62 street rod is offered with build and operation binders, historical documentation, build photographs, and a Kansas title in the seller’s name.
The seller tells us over 3,000 hours of body and paint work was performed during the build to enhance the lines and align the chrome side trim to the top of the rear bumper. Other revisions included chopping the top and trunk line, reshaping the drip rails, adjusting the pitch of the B-pillar, and welding the quarter panels to the body along with fabricated new rockers and fender openings. The rear bumper was lowered by 3″ and notched to accommodate the exhaust tips. The Pearl Metallic Red paint is complemented by a modified 1955 Cadillac-sourced Dagmar-style front bumper and fabricated egg-crate grille, and styling elements continue with a peaked hood and front fenders, removable rear wheel skirts, chrome bodyside moldings, and rear bumper overriders that have been frenched into the valance. The body-colored front inner wheel wells have been covered in paint protection film.
Chrome 18″ billet Sabre-style wheels are mounted with Diamondback whitewall tires, and braking is handled by Wilwood multi-piston calipers over slotted and drilled rotors. The car rides on a Roadster Shop Fast Track chassis utilizing an adjustable Accu-Air suspension system with individual wheel sensors, dual compressors, and E-Level control. The seller notes that three programmed ride heights consist of “low show,” Drive, and High settings, and are all adjustable for overall travel of approximately 6″.
The perimeter of the cabin is accented with painted metallic bronze and Quilted Maple wood panels, while two-tone Saddle and Tobacco Italian leather covers the front and rear bucket seats, doors, and fabricated full-length center console, the latter of which has a power-operated cover to conceal cupholders and air suspension controls. Illuminated “Cadillac” script tops the radio bezel, which houses a Bluetooth Kenwood touchscreen receiver and controls for the Vintage Air climate control unit. Appointments include heated and ventilated front seats, cruise control, power-operated front and rear windows, a rearview camera, GPS, hands-free phone connectivity, and satellite radio capability.
The Italian leather-trimmed steering wheel sits on a chrome Iditit tilting column, and the customized Dakota Digital gauge cluster is comprised of a 120-mph speedometer, a tachometer, and readouts for fuel level, oil pressure, coolant temperature, and voltage. The odometer shows 6k miles, which is said to represent the mileage added since the completion of the build. Total mileage is unknown.
Engine bay customization work consisted of moving the firewall 2″, tucking the wiring and hoses, and fitting a revised radiator support and inner fender panels. The removable front panel allows access to the radiator, and the hood opens on fabricated hinges with gas struts.
The 6.2-liter LS3 crate V8 is reported to be a 525-horsepower variant, and it breathes through a Jim Inglese eight-stack electronic fuel injection setup. Bronze metallic fabricated covers with “WickCad” script are mounted over the coils, and equipment includes a serpentine accessory-drive setup, a BeCool aluminum radiator, a Holley Dominator ECU, and a stainless-steel exhaust system with MagnaFlow mufflers.
Power is routed through a 4L85E four-speed automatic transmission, a custom polished driveshaft, and a Strange 9″ rear end with a limited-slip differential. Removable belly pans allow access to underbody components, and the driveshaft tunnel was raised for additional clearance.
The factory owner’s manual included with the original sale of the car to Adolphe Menjou is shown above, along with a photo of the actor. Copies of the 1949 sale documentation and clippings from Menjou’s career are displayed in the gallery below.
Binders containing build records, operation manuals, and wiring diagrams are provided in the gallery along with in-progress photos of the build.
The current Kansas title lists an Antique vehicle brand.
This ’29 Ford Model A is a steel-bodied Tudor sedan that was built into a street rod by a previous owner. It is powered by a 377ci Chevrolet V8 topped by an Edelbrock intake and a Holley fuel-injection system, and it is linked to a 700R4 automatic transmission and a Ford 9″ rear end. The car rides on a modified suspension with coilovers, 15″ American Racing wheels, and front disc brakes, and inside are bucket seats, Auto Meter gauges, a Custom Autosound radio, Vintage Air climate control, and power windows. Acquired by the seller in 2022, this street rod is now offered with a build sheet and an Oklahoma title in the seller’s name.
The seller tells us the bodywork is steel, and it has been painted metallic gray with black fenders. The hood is louvered, and the windshield tilts out.
The car rides on a modified suspension with tubular front control arms, coilover shocks, and a four-link rear end. The 15″ American Racing wheels are mounted with staggered BFGoodrich tires, and the car has front disc and rear drum brakes.
Two-tone upholstery covers the bucket seats, and a Lokar shifter and controls for the Vintage Air system are mounted in the floor console. The Custom Autosound stereo is mounted in a pod under the dashboard, and the car also has Lokar pedals and a USB port.
A billet steering wheel and Auto Meter gauges were installed as well. 1,500 miles are indicated on the cluster.
The 377ci Chevrolet V8 is topped by an Edelbrock intake manifold and a Holley Sniper fuel-injection system. The valve cover gaskets were replaced in 2024. The headers are linked to a dual exhaust system with Flowmaster mufflers, and MSD ignition was used.
The 700R4 automatic transmission is linked to a a Ford 9″ rear end.
The car is titled as a 1929 Ford using VIN A1711738, which the seller is unable to locate on the frame, noting that a stamping found on the firewall is illegible. The title carries a Classic notation.
The third-generation Lexus IS sport sedan has been on the market for more than a decade. The end is near, so Lexus is streamlining and simplifying the lineup for 2026, which we be limited to just the IS 350 with rear- or all-wheel drive and the F Sport or F Sport Design trim level.
That’s a drastic reduction from the 2025 model year, which offered three core models (IS 300, IS 350, and IS 500), four model-dependent engine options (turbo four, 260-horsepower V6, 311-horsepower V6, and 5.0-liter V8), and the choice of RWD or AWD for much of the range.
However, in the process of reducing complexity for the 2026 IS, Lexus made some updates and improvements. It refreshed the front end, giving it a wider-mouthed, more aggressive appearance (albeit one that brings the Toyota Camry Nightshade and its “hammerhead” design to mind). Both trim levels come equipped with new 19-inch wheel designs. A new rear spoiler and red brake calipers are available to make the IS 350 F Sport look F Sport-ier. Wind, a light gray with metallic highlights, brings the number of available colors up to seven.
There’s also a new interior color: Radiant Red, which is offset by the addition of dark Forged Bamboo trim with natural bamboo fibers. Both the digital instrument cluster and the touchscreen for the Lexus Interface infotainment system have grown to 12.3 inches. A wireless charging pad and four USB-C ports add modern conveniences to the cockpit.
All 2026 IS models feature the Lexus Safety System+ 3.0 suite of technologies, which include the Pre-Collision System with Pedestrian Detection, Full-Speed Dynamic Radar Cruise Control, Lane Departure Alert with Steering Assist, Proactive Driving Assist, and more.
Output of the 3.5-liter V6 holds steady at 311 horsepower and 280 lb-ft of torque. As before, in RWD models, it’s paired with an eight-speed automatic; in AWD IS 350s, the big six is connected to a six-speed auto. Lexus saved the most significant hardware changes for the steering and suspension systems, further refining the IS’s Lexus Driving Signature. According to the automaker, “By optimizing the Electric Power Steering (EPS) and suspension systems, development focused on delivering linear, consistent steering feel across a wide range of roads and driving conditions. Attention was given not only to how the vehicle reacts to steering and pedal inputs, but also to the smoothness and control of their return motion.”
How has the MSRP of the 2026 IS changed with all these changes and updates? That’s one thing Lexus hasn’t yet disclosed. Expect the company to announce pricing for the refreshed IS closer to when it goes on sale early next year.
Shelby Mustang fans had to wait a long time for the GT500 to return in 2007, but the all-new model was worth the wait. Developed by Carroll Shelby and SVT, Ford’s Special Vehicle Team, the S197 GT500 had a 500-horsepower supercharged 5.4-liter V8 under its hood and a TREMEC six-speed manual to turn all that fury into forward motion. Of course, the GT500 also had upgraded brakes and suspension hardware to keep all four 18-inch machined aluminum wheels on the road.
Someone had the willpower to resist driving this particular Shelby GT500, which was sold at the Barrett-Jackson 2025 Palm Beach Auction, into a road warrior, and put fewer than 1,000 miles on it. We here at ClassicCars TV would enjoy the supercharged power too much and rack up big numbers on the odometer. Would you drive this 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 sparingly or take it everywhere and show it off? Let us know in the comments below.
